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Post by Pokahpolice on Feb 7, 2014 18:30:28 GMT -5
**UPDATED PARTS LIST WITH PRICES Figured it was time to get this thread started. The plan is a 10 gallon SPS tank with a DIY LED fixture and a DIY Controller. I've ordered just about all the equipment and started getting things rolling today. Here is the parts list so far...
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Post by Pokahpolice on Feb 7, 2014 18:48:57 GMT -5
Step one - Cut glass (Lowes) and put together the overflow. Line up the pieces an tape in place Silicone - make sure it's reef safe!! End product -
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Post by Pokahpolice on Feb 7, 2014 18:52:53 GMT -5
Hole bits came in today. Tomorrow, I'll drill and place the bulkhead and then silicone the overflow onto the tank. 1" Bulkhead with screen
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Post by Pokahpolice on Feb 7, 2014 18:54:20 GMT -5
This sounds like a way cool build! But..... Better?? LOL!
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Post by Pokahpolice on Feb 8, 2014 16:33:15 GMT -5
New legs came in today for the light fixture that I'm going to use while I build the LED.
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Post by Pokahpolice on Feb 8, 2014 16:37:19 GMT -5
Did some work on the tank. Drilled the hole for the bulkhead. Not the cleanest hole but does the job. I made a small mistake. The overflow that I made is about 1/8 of an inch too short. Yo can see where I cut the plastic rim of the tank. I didn't need to cut it so high but you won't see it anyway.
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Post by Pokahpolice on Feb 8, 2014 16:45:54 GMT -5
Ready for paint Finished paint
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Post by gotareef on Feb 8, 2014 19:39:36 GMT -5
looks great so far
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Post by Pokahpolice on Feb 8, 2014 20:47:00 GMT -5
Thanks Rob, Last piece for the day. Secure the overflow.
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NateG
Full Member
Posts: 222
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Post by NateG on Feb 9, 2014 15:30:18 GMT -5
Looks great so far but I'm concerned about painting the overflow box...what kind of paint did you use. From what I understand anything but krylon spray paint for plastics is not reef safe and will eventually degrade into the water. Also that 1" ABS bulkhead is socket x socket ;)Don't fret about that hole. Any drilled 10 gallon that isn't cracked is a success in my book
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NateG
Full Member
Posts: 222
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Post by NateG on Feb 9, 2014 15:33:02 GMT -5
What about having Easy Aquariums make you a custom acrylic overflow box with teeth and a lid. That may you won't need the strainer backet (which impedes flow dramatically) while having it extend into the tank only 1.25" and less than 6" tall.
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Post by Pokahpolice on Feb 9, 2014 16:55:20 GMT -5
Krylon Fusion on the box. I did a ton of reading before painting because I was a bit concerned about it as well but the fusion seems to hold up and isn't toxic as long as you let it cure a full 7 days. The 1" hole with the strainer is going to be plenty of flow for the small tank IMHO. To be honest, If I have trouble with either, I'll just buy another $15 tank and start over.
You're right, the bulkhead is slip/slip...they sent me the wrong one but I didn't want to wait for another one so I used it. I'll just have to use some PVC cement on it.
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Post by Pokahpolice on Feb 9, 2014 17:00:25 GMT -5
Need some opinions on the return. I think I've decided that I want to drill another hole(s) for the return. I'm going with 1/2 Loc-line. Do you think I should go with 2 returns or just 1? If I go with 2 should I drill 2 holes and 'T' the return line behind the tank or should I drill 1 hole and 'T' the line in the tank?
My thought is 2 holes because I want it to be as clean as possible.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Feb 10, 2014 6:21:43 GMT -5
If you look at the graphs and the example they showed they said the light goes through the glass and bounces of the outer part of the Paine of glass and more of it escapes when it's painted for some reason. *This is the paragraph that came with the graph that I'm positing* we tracked down physics professor Brain Lane, looking for a possible explanation. As he explained, in simple terms, when light leaves its source and hits the panes of glass in the tank, some of that light escapes through the glass, but some is reflected off the inner surface of the glass and heads back into the tank. As strange as it might sound, some of the light also reflects off the inner "surface" of the outer side of the glass pane, too (see the figure below). However, apparently having something "sealed" against the glass, such as blue paint or a wetted blue plastic background stops some of the light from reflecting off the inner surface of the outer side of the glass pane. If anything else was going on, taping the dry plastic background on the tank would have the same effect - but it didn't. [/quote] I know this is going to be a sps tank so every bit of light counts. May be to late now though. Attachments:
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Post by Pokahpolice on Feb 10, 2014 7:48:17 GMT -5
Light certainly isn't going to be an issue. Most people are running these HO LEDs at about 30% or moving them up pretty high because of too much light bleaching most corals. And remember, this tank is only 16" deep. For me personally, painting the rear panel of a tank is a must. It just makes the tank so much cleaner looking and makes the eye focus on the life in the tank rather than the wires and plumbing in the back.
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