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Post by Hack157 on May 2, 2014 7:59:09 GMT -5
Yes Jason is correct about the construction of an ATO when he repeats that the need for a relay is for protection of the float switch. These switches are not capable of taking large amounts of electrical current repeatedly over time, they will fuse. When they fuse in the open position your entire top off reservoir is dumped into your tank. The question is not if they are going to fail, but when. So if you want to run without a relay, just plan to swap out the float switch from time to time. Sure splicing a float switch into a cheap extension cord is very simple to do, it amounts to nothing more then adding an on/off switch for power to the receptacle end, and the connections can certainly be made to be safe around the tank. But these float switches do not come with wire anywhere near the gauge that is typical of any item running 110v through it. These float switches activate dozens of times per day, blast of 100v off, blast of 110v off... Adding a 7.00 relay and some DC power to run it makes this build infinitely more reliable and safer for your tank. Just weigh the pros and cons of anything you do, and then go for it. Not everyone's "pros" list is going to be the same.
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 2, 2014 8:57:52 GMT -5
You explain it so much better then I do. Sent from my SCH-R970 using proboards
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Post by Pokahpolice on May 2, 2014 9:25:51 GMT -5
Agreed, the safety aspect isn't the electrical set up...it's the validity of the switch.
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Post by speedyron on May 2, 2014 15:32:45 GMT -5
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 2, 2014 17:43:04 GMT -5
Do you have something against this type of ato? I started this thread to get help with the ato I've decided to build and I've already ordered the parts to build the ato I want to build. I have no interest in using a gravity fed ato. I also would never run my ato directly from my Ro/Di. This is the safest and most reliable diy ato in MY opinion. If you think it's not then your more then welcome not to use it. I already said above I ordered the parts and have a lot of them already so why would I want suggestions on a completely different ato system? Seems like your trying to convince me and it's just not going to happen sorry speedyron we'll have to agree to disagree on this one. Sent from my SCH-R970 using proboards
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Post by speedyron on May 2, 2014 18:03:37 GMT -5
just friendly conversation don't get upset Jason. im wondering why though u would not go strait fron rodi
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 2, 2014 18:54:43 GMT -5
I'm not upset I just don't understand why your trying to talk me out of using the kind of ato I want to use? I've done allot of research and as far as diy ato I think they're the most reliable and safest W/electricity.
I personally wouldn't go straight from my Ro/Di because I flush my Ro/Di almost every time I use it. When you first turn your Ro/Di on the Tds is always at it's highest and this can cause you to burn through your filters faster. I also don't want to run tubing from my Ro/Di to my aquarium it's a ways away. Lastly I don't like the looks of the BIG float switches they're huge, my electric one is about an inch long and half inch wide so you barely notice it. Lol that's it
Sent from my SCH-R970 using proboards
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Post by speedyron on May 2, 2014 19:13:46 GMT -5
i ran a saddle from a water line and also ran a tube to the drain line all very cheap 1/4 poly tubing so that the rodi is right next to the tank. they are quick disconnects so all you have to do is shut off valve b4 rodi swap waste and input lines once a month and flush. then run thru sensor till zero and hook back up. never have worry bout flushing every time cuz stays on and has waste shutoff built in so when valve closes waste water is cut off also. very cheap and never have fill a make up jug. there is a tee and a valve in a rubbermaid trashcan so fills up for mixing saltwater and a circulatory pump in can. and a pump for running hose to tanks. next plan on putting a drain next tanks so when siphon out old water can go right in drain. last bit would not be easy for u in trailer but the rest makes life lot easier and is very simple to hook up in your house
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 2, 2014 19:57:04 GMT -5
It'll ask be made much simpler soon! I'm just not making any major changes right now like that because were currently looking for a house:) we've already been approved just need to find something we like and were out of here! #1 priority to have in or house we buy is a basement because it's going to be all mine!! Instead of a fish room I'm gonna have a fishment (basement). Lol I love the drain idea though I'll have to figure out a way to hook that into the new set up, in the basement and upstairs for the display tank!;D
Sent from my SCH-R970 using proboards
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Post by Matt in Lewiston on May 2, 2014 20:27:55 GMT -5
My RO/DI is hooked up 24/7, I have a pressure activated solenoid that turns on and off the waste. The feed is going to my 3 systems (display, pod tank, frag system) and another to my mix tank, all with a simple float. I flush it about once a week, but I also have 2 stages of filtration on my whole house, a basic sediment then basic carbon filter before it goes to my RO/DI system and its pre-filters. My TDS meter is around 40-50 ppm on the input (I feel lucky here), and 0 on the output.
The 1/4" plastic line is easy to run most places I need it discreetly. However, if I set up a nano cube where I am planning on it, I would need to set up an independent electronic system.
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Post by Hack157 on May 2, 2014 21:46:07 GMT -5
If you are using Kalk in your ATO, coming directly off the RODI is not an option. Likewise I don't happen to like wasting water so my RODI is set up to fill the washing machine while it makes water for the tank. I researched this just like Jason has, and reached the same conclusion that this DIY system is the safest most reliable of its type. Note, I said of its type. As Mr Saltwater Tank says repeatedly, know your tank personality. What works for one person isn't going to work for everyone. There are pros and cons to every type of ATO out there plain and simple. What is right for anyone is what works for them.
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Post by speedyron on May 3, 2014 6:29:54 GMT -5
I also have 2 stages of filtration on my whole house, a basic sediment then basic carbon filter before it goes to my RO/DI system and its pre-filters. i want to do this too some point. they recently worked on water lines my area (city water) plugged the rodi right up If you are using Kalk in your ATO, coming directly off the RODI is not an option. Likewise I don't happen to like wasting water so my RODI is set up to fill the washing machine while it makes water for the tank Well u cant really say not an option. There are more metered approaches to dose kalk. Water evaporates at different rates depending on heat and so fourth so your ato will fill more or less. does not mean your kalk evaporates or is used up at same rate by your live stalk. just one example would be an auto drip system we use to acclimate animals metered way back and filled at regular intervals would give your tank a more reliable amount at regular intervals. the other point about wasted water. water again evaporates whether it goes into sewer systems and evaporates in clarifiers or goes out on the ground in your yard when you wash your car. it then rains back into your water supply. or if it goes into the ground and is filtered thru it in your septic and goes back into the water table. where is the waste. perhaps your talking bout your water bill. mine has not risen. maybe i wash my harley to much
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Post by speedyron on May 3, 2014 6:31:45 GMT -5
oh i just reversed the input output on the rodi and ran couple minutes and it was like new again according to the tds meter
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 3, 2014 8:44:22 GMT -5
My RO/DI is hooked up 24/7, I have a pressure activated solenoid that turns on and off the waste. The feed is going to my 3 systems (display, pod tank, frag system) and another to my mix tank, all with a simple float. I flush it about once a week, but I also have 2 stages of filtration on my whole house, a basic sediment then basic carbon filter before it goes to my RO/DI system and its pre-filters. My TDS meter is around 40-50 ppm on the input (I feel lucky here), and 0 on the output. The 1/4" plastic line is easy to run most places I need it discreetly. However, if I set up a nano cube where I am planning on it, I would need to set up an independent electronic system. T5's Tds on my input(after flush) is normally 2-3! And my water is terrible we don't even drink it! Mostly large particles though, as I have to change my sediment filter often. Sent from my SCH-R970 using proboards
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Post by Hack157 on May 3, 2014 9:18:18 GMT -5
where is the waste. perhaps your talking bout your water bill. mine has not risen. maybe i wash my harley to much Where is the waste? Approximately 4 gallons of waste water for every 1 gallon of filtered on average. That is what an RODI system produces give or take a gallon or so depending upon the set up and the age of the filters. Pouring that waste water down the drain is exactly how it is described, waste. When you are on city service you pay for water and sewer. Sewer bills are based upon how much water you use, so the cost is a factor at least for me. Those on well water probably don't care, but then again wells can dry up. Washing your Harley is fine with me, at least your not just pouring water down a drain unused. Trying is suggest you can use an RODI hooked up to an ATO reservoir that contains measured amounts of Kalk is not an option. Changing the dynamics using metering is an entirely different system and not what we are using or building. Since every float switch ever designed will fail at some point, how about those hooked directly to an RODI? Infallible, certainly not. But when they fail the water never stops pouring into the tank until someone discovers it. Or how about gravity feed, every toilet uses such a system and how many of them never fail? You can add redundancy to make the system safer or less likely to be a catastrophic failure, but there are inherit risks in every system used. I happen to like the system I use today, and when I find a better one for my situation that will be my next favorite. But I do know there is no one right system, and not every system can work for everyone.
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