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Post by jasonandsarah on May 1, 2014 9:09:33 GMT -5
Am I looking for this one?...  Or this one?...  Sent from my SCH-R970 using proboards |
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Post by gotareef on May 1, 2014 9:15:48 GMT -5
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 1, 2014 9:48:01 GMT -5
I understand that. I'm planning to get a B.O.B. but it still doesn't have a relay in it. It's very easily built as well for less then the $39.99 plus/shipping. www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1847474 so once I got the part's I'll be building this and them probably going to build the B.O.B. as well. I understand it's not that much more$ to just buy it but these are simpler projects that I WANT to do in order to gain some experience. I've figured it out and know exactly what I need to get now so ty foggman for answering my question.  Sent from my SCH-R970 using proboards |
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Post by Hack157 on May 1, 2014 10:52:59 GMT -5
Jason I used a Radio Shack relay #275-0218 and picked up a socket there as well for around 4.00. You can wire directly to the relay switch, but adding the socket makes it so much easier and cleaner. Then it is just a matter of how you want to wire it. I decided to use a standard junction box with a receptacle and run power to it. Not only does the relay control the amount of voltage hammering a small magnetic float switch, but it makes a click so you can hear it go on and off. If you use a junction box make sure you feed your wires through before making the final connections or you will be starting over.
The first picture you posted above looks exactly like the relay I used. Total cost between 7.00 to 8.00 at Radio Shack.
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 1, 2014 11:08:37 GMT -5
Jason I used a Radio Shack relay #275-0218 and picked up a socket there as well for around 4.00. You can wire directly to the relay switch, but adding the socket makes it so much easier and cleaner. Then it is just a matter of how you want to wire it. I decided to use a standard junction box with a receptacle and run power to it. Not only does the relay control the amount of voltage hammering a small magnetic float switch, but it makes a click so you can hear it go on and off. If you use a junction box make sure you feed your wires through before making the final connections or you will be starting over. The first picture you posted above looks exactly like the relay I used. Total cost between 7.00 to 8.00 at Radio Shack. Sweet there only 4$ on Amazon for both as a set. Radio shack is not really close to ninny house at all. Ty very much for the help and info! If I need more help I'll pm you if that's ok? Sent from my SCH-R970 using proboards |
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Post by Hack157 on May 1, 2014 11:24:08 GMT -5
Jason look anything I can do to help just ask. I am all about DIY when it is less expensive and just as good or better then buying new. My most recent project was a DIY LED hanger made out of bent conduit, total cost including paint under 10.00. You can see it in my Avatar. Just make sure the relay is 12VDC/10A DPDT. I will pull my unit out of the sump over the weekend and make a set of instructions complete with pictures. That way I will have them when the next person wants to make one. An ATO is just so simple to make a caveman could do it. George.
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 1, 2014 11:37:17 GMT -5
Jason look anything I can do to help just ask. I am all about DIY when it is less expensive and just as good or better then buying new. My most recent project was a DIY LED hanger made out of bent conduit, total cost including paint under 10.00. You can see it in my Avatar. Just make sure the relay is 12VDC/10A DPDT. I will pull my unit out of the sump over the weekend and make a set of instructions complete with pictures. That way I will have them when the next person wants to make one. An ATO is just so simple to make a caveman could do it. George. Great idea I really think we should have a section for just diy projects. I'm not in favor of having a ton of new thread subjects but diy reefing is important and having detailed instructions from someone on the forum is allot better then finding 10 different sets of instructions when you Google it! Lol also safer imo so you can do it right the first time. Once again ty very much Sent from my SCH-R970 using proboards |
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Post by jess on May 1, 2014 12:29:16 GMT -5
George's ato is pretty neat
Sent from my HTC6525LVW using proboards
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Post by Pokahpolice on May 1, 2014 13:27:55 GMT -5
Sorry I'm late to the party. Either one of the relays you posted will work. The one with the plug just makes it easier to replace if it ever goes bad.
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Post by speedyron on May 1, 2014 19:14:36 GMT -5
how is this safer if just using what rob said plugged into gfci. that would be safest possible beacause 12v wont interrupt and still have nuff amps to kill u lol
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 1, 2014 20:52:37 GMT -5
What about the other end? The one going into the tank? It stops 120v going to the float switch like said above. Instead it sends 12v .
Not to mention I want to put it in a project box anyways, cause wire nuts over exposed wires isn't the best around salt water.
So for 10$ I made it allot safer. Good investment imo.
Sent from my SCH-R970 using proboards
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Post by speedyron on May 2, 2014 5:40:39 GMT -5
and as i said a gfci will disrupt power in a millisecond your 12 volts is nuff to kill u and will not disrupt
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 2, 2014 6:54:34 GMT -5
If this is the safest easiest and most reliable way to have an Ato then why do people pay anywhere from 80$-200$ for an Ato? Why don't company's make them like this?
As I stated before it's not about the gfci outlet. I have that already. It's about sending 120v directly to the float switch over and over every day. Won't take to long before it fails. If your float switches fail and you don't notice then your pumps a goner and a slew of other problems could happen .
Set up this way you turning that 120v coming from your outlet into 12v and putting less stress on your float switch witch are known to fail already. I'm putting the wires in a water tight box(always good around salt water).
All for 10$ extra. It's definitely safer and more reliable and for 10$ I'll take it.
If your happy with your Ato then don't change it. To each his own.
But I wasn't asking for advice on keeping my current Ato, I was asking for help upgrading it. I'm not saying the other way won't work because it does it's just a matter of how long and how safe also what you personally want to accomplish.
Sent from my SCH-R970 using proboards
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 2, 2014 6:59:32 GMT -5
Here's a quote from a good thread on it. like i said some people use different ways I prefer this way. Heat is not the issue here. Most float switches I have seen have a small magnetic float that rides over a plastiv rod with the switch contained within. That switch is a reed switch that the magnet switches. This makes it nice and safe. However reed switches are very fine and the main cause of failue is when the switch changes (not the continious running). Every time the switch switches on or off a spark is generated. If you are sourcing too much current that spark tends to 'weld' the switch in the either on or off position. Rather use our float switch to drive a relay which has low current requirements. the forum I got it from. www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=606215 Gfci outlet wont stop this from happening.... |
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 2, 2014 7:26:29 GMT -5
So I got online and bought everything last night I need and the conclusion is........ I spent less then the cost of one and I get to diy both ato and B.O.B.  Sent from my SCH-R970 using proboards |
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