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Post by pam0630 on May 24, 2013 13:09:48 GMT -5
how much would that be to do??? i have lots of fish and corals
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Post by ryansweatt2004 on May 24, 2013 13:20:29 GMT -5
Get a cheap power inverter to use in your car so that you can plug in an air pump and heater. Keep all the fish and inverts in a large cooler or tote. I prefer rubber made brute trash cans for moving lots of livestock from tanks. 18 hours is nothing if you plan ahead and keep the water warm and aerated.
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Post by pam0630 on May 24, 2013 13:27:37 GMT -5
i have a battery operated pump for the fsh...should i just bad up the corals indiv and put in one or couple of those shipping boxes..styrofoam things.....would that be a better plan
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Post by ryansweatt2004 on May 24, 2013 13:33:04 GMT -5
Corals should be fine in a regular cooler as long as you can maintain the temp. The worst part of moving a tank is having to transfer all the water as well as extra water for water changes and to make up for water loss from spilling and sloshing. I just moved a friends 65 galling reef the other day and did it all with brute trash cans. It definitely takes some planning and once you start you can't stop.
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Post by pam0630 on May 24, 2013 13:43:20 GMT -5
i think im just going to bad my corals and put in the styrofoam coolers that i get from buying fish..penny
fish should be fine in tote with batt operated pump..should put amquel in with fish to destress
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Post by jess on May 24, 2013 14:35:28 GMT -5
I didn't lose anything to temps or oxygen, the ammonia levels went thru the roof. If I had to do it again I would bag individually. That many corals/fish all stressing and releasing toxins literally went from 0 to off the charts in a matter of hours. I think if you bag everything separately with a good amount of water they would fair better. But it's stressful no matter what
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Post by lindsey1984 on May 24, 2013 15:37:44 GMT -5
Sorry to hear about the rbta. Don't have a lot of experience with tropical starfish, but if their anything like local stars they can have 2-3 legs chopped off and in a couple weeks be back to normal. If you need any extra RO water to help get the nitrates down in the 40 I can probably help out. Thank you so much for the offer Jason! I do have an RODI unit hooked up in my basement and I use a 30 gal holding tank so I should in theory be ok, but if i need to do a water change on both tanks at the same time I may need to take you up on that.Thank you!  Btw, where are you from again? |
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jason
New Member
Fayette ME
Posts: 65 
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Post by jason on May 24, 2013 16:37:06 GMT -5
I'm from Fayette, it's about 20 minutes west of Augusta. My wife and I wouldn't mind a road trip if there was something you needed. I keep a full 55g barrel on hand and I'm not scheduled for a water change until next Wednesday so I have time to refill it several times before then.
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Post by jess on May 24, 2013 16:56:46 GMT -5
I'm hoping drastic measures like excessive travel for anyone won't be needed  I am very grateful for all the help tho!! I think with one more small water change in the 40 the nitrates will be low enough to put stock back in. Sent from my Galaxy S3 via ProBoards |
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Post by pam0630 on May 24, 2013 17:19:09 GMT -5
jess do you mean bag everything to fish and corals separately??? what about putting amquel in the water with the fish, would that help with levels???
what do you think about the dr aquatics all in one medicine to automatically cycle the tank when i get to south carolina...put cleaned sand back in and fill with water that i take out and also water that i will have made ahead........i will still keep my fish and corals out for a couple days in the totes...ill somehow hang the light above to give light to corals.....
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jason
New Member
Fayette ME
Posts: 65
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Post by jason on May 24, 2013 17:45:17 GMT -5
I have used Dr. Tims all in one. I did use 200g worth in a 160g. I didn't go crazy with the bio load, just 2 fish and it worked just as it claimed.
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Post by lindsey1984 on May 24, 2013 17:48:50 GMT -5
WOW Jason! You're about 3ish hours from me! Thats quite a haul! I think I should be fine honestly. I'll just alternate water changes so I have enough for both. I usually do a 20 gal water change every two weeks, so ill do her's one week and mine the next. Thank you for offering to come all the way here though, thats TOTALLY appreciated!
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Post by jess on May 24, 2013 18:19:19 GMT -5
The hardest part and what we don't think so much about is the ammonia levels building and no way to remove them while being moved. I would bag everything. In the event you choose not to bag everything, bring a few gallons of premixed water preferably close to temp so that you can do some water changes every couple hours. My stock was in totes less then 24 hours. Went from 0 ammonia to something off the charts.
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Post by jess on May 27, 2013 22:40:15 GMT -5
So far my loss has been:
2 misbar clowns
1 black clown
1 Maine mocha
1 lawnmower blenny
Rbta (my "sherbet" parent of the couple of splits)
1mantis
Things that look like won't make it
Starfish (he's a tough bugger tho)
Large plate
..........
My tank is still stressed and things still aren't looking great. Nitrates are 40-80 and ammonia is still traceable. I only used clean tank water that was taken out of my tank before disturbing rocks or sand. The rest was tossed out. My sand was rinsed before putting back in tank.
I'm wondering on dosing amquel, how much how often to rapidly make my tank safe? I have read it is non toxic and reef safe but before dosing large amounts want to see anyone else's experience.
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Post by gotareef on May 28, 2013 1:22:36 GMT -5
the only side effect of amquel is it depletes the water of oxygen fast! I would start at 1/2 the recommended dose and make sure to have an airstone going
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Btw, where are you from again?
I am very grateful for all the help tho!! I think with one more small water change in the 40 the nitrates will be low enough to put stock back in. 