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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Dec 3, 2014 9:10:50 GMT -5
I recently found out that my fathes side of the family has bougt me a 75 gallon as a christmas prsent (I think he felt guilty for breaking off te center brace on my 65 when we moved, which in turn caused a major disaster). So of course, like most all of us on the site. the gears are turning, daydreqming has begun, and blueprints are being drawn up. The house we're living in is a split level house which has a open landing between floors which would be the perfect spot: wide open view to living room on the second floor and possibly (if built correctly) could be seen from the foyer on the ground floor when you first enter the house. By built correctly, I mean do obstructions from view on any side. What I would like to do is this. I'm thinking I could drill 3 holes in the bottom; one large in the center for overflow and any nessesary wiring (fed through a seperate pvc pipe down the center;water tight of course) and two return holes on either end. This would leave anything that would normally in back of the tank unseen, making it viewable from 360 degrees. Is this a reasonable idea? As far as I know, the bottom glass is not tempered, for there is no warning sticker which you usually see on the bottom cross brace. I plan on finding out the make and contacting the manufacturer to make sure.
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Post by ryansweatt2004 on Dec 3, 2014 9:35:56 GMT -5
You should be able to tell if the glass is tempered by looking at it through a polorizing camera lens with a light behind it. I forget exactly how this works though. Everything ive been told, Its anout a 90% or greater change that the bottom pane of glass will always be tempered in new tanks over 55 gallons. New tanks 55 gallonns or smaller are almost always entirely built from tempered glass to save weight. Again, this is just what ive researched and have been told by stores. As always though, contacting the aquarium manufacturer is your best bet.
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Dec 3, 2014 10:33:55 GMT -5
Ok so I just called Aqueon and they said the bottom glass is tempered. BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD!
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Post by scoobnoob on Dec 3, 2014 12:53:14 GMT -5
Usually the bottom is tempered the backs arent. If you need a hand let me know I've drilled 12 tanks w/o incident and I'm local to you.
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Dec 3, 2014 13:08:59 GMT -5
Ok so I just called Aqueon and they said the bottom glass is tempered. BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD!
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Dec 3, 2014 13:13:36 GMT -5
Usually the bottom is tempered the backs arent. If you need a hand let me know I've drilled 12 tanks w/o incident and I'm local to you. I really appreciate the offer, but probably won't drill it now. Probably just gonna use the overflows I've got on the 40 now, just didn't want the mess that's usually associated with the backs of our tanks. If I can't drill the bottom, I'd rather not drill it at all. |
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Post by jasonandsarah on Dec 3, 2014 13:19:39 GMT -5
What about drilling the back bottom of the tank and putting it right back into the stand? Like a U... a lot less messy them 2 overflow boxes hanging off the back.
Sent from my SM-N910R4 using proboards
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Dec 3, 2014 13:31:57 GMT -5
You know, that may work. Let me think on that one. hmmmm
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Dec 3, 2014 13:44:09 GMT -5
How close to the bottom pane can you get. Would it hurt any thing to cut through the trim too.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Dec 3, 2014 13:48:58 GMT -5
I've seen people do it on smaller tanks idk about a 75g.... plus you get under the trim and your getting really close to the silicone seal.
Sent from my SM-N910R4 using proboards
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Dec 3, 2014 13:57:57 GMT -5
I've got a 10" gap that I can play with. The rail on the edge of the landing has a 2x10 board vertically positioned at the top, so if I can get the plumbing between tank and stand within 8" or so that would work. Planning on building custom stwnd to get stand tank connection around ceter of the board.
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Post by foggman on Dec 3, 2014 18:15:12 GMT -5
I would get nervous about drilling it low, that is where all the water weight is, do some Google research I'm sure it's been done
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Post by scoobnoob on Dec 3, 2014 20:19:00 GMT -5
I've seen a 75 drilled mid way running dual PVC spray bar returns.
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Jan 14, 2015 12:40:04 GMT -5
Ok. So I'm back to the drawing board. Just talked to Alex at Pet Pro here in Bangor, and he shot my plans down. This is a 75g that I'm setting up so that it will be viewed front and back only, kinda like a room divider. The stand frame is already built to exact specification to fit in the spot it's going. I have exactly 3" of space on each side of the tank to run plumbing to the sump. We measured a1" bulkhead with an elbow inserted. We figured with the glass, it would be a little over 3", so drilling may not be the best answer. I need help. Opinions? I've thought maybe gravity fed uplift tubes like you would use with a canaster filter? Though obnoxious looking... PLEASE HELP! I can't move on until I figure out the plumbing!
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jan 14, 2015 13:14:57 GMT -5
Ok. So I'm back to the drawing board. Just talked to Alex at Pet Pro here in Bangor, and he shot my plans down. This is a 75g that I'm setting up so that it will be viewed front and back only, kinda like a room divider. The stand frame is already built to exact specification to fit in the spot it's going. I have exactly 3" of space on each side of the tank to run plumbing to the sump. We measured a1" bulkhead with an elbow inserted. We figured with the glass, it would be a little over 3", so drilling may not be the best answer. I need help. Opinions? I've thought maybe gravity fed uplift tubes like you would use with a canaster filter? Though obnoxious looking... PLEASE HELP! I can't move on until I figure out the plumbing! 3" should give you enough room for a reg overflow shouldn't it? Sent from my SM-N910R4 using proboards |
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