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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Feb 6, 2017 11:03:05 GMT -5
Getting ready to break down my reef tank and convert it to a low tech, low budget planted tank. Just wondering who out there does planted tanks that can give advice when needed.
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Feb 6, 2017 11:23:37 GMT -5
OK first question. Sump or no sump. If no sump, just powerheads. Don't have money for new equipment, need to use existing
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Post by ryansweatt2004 on Feb 6, 2017 11:31:56 GMT -5
Id still use a sump, just make a layered media filter floss filter basket to hang in your overflow chamber to remove dissolved and solid organics. I've done this with layered carbon, filter floss and nitrate/ammonia absorbing media and had good results.
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Feb 6, 2017 13:18:38 GMT -5
Thank you Ryan
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Feb 6, 2017 13:39:40 GMT -5
For return: open ended PVC or spray bar?
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Post by spotfin on Feb 6, 2017 22:06:15 GMT -5
Do you have any hob filters? If so, you could use those instead of the sump. If not, definitely have some type of mechanical and biological filtration in your sump.
For return, either would work. How much flow do you estimate?
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Feb 7, 2017 13:40:21 GMT -5
Currently using a Hydor L40 which is rated for 740 gph, which works OK. I also have a Mag 24 (2400 gph) but that's just way too strong. As to hob, nope.
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Feb 7, 2017 15:30:18 GMT -5
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Post by fermentedhiker on Feb 8, 2017 9:17:14 GMT -5
My vote would be for a sump and straight return. Adds volume and gives you a place for heaters etc... That will work fine as it's dimmable.
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Post by fermentedhiker on Feb 8, 2017 9:50:17 GMT -5
The kicker with low light plants like anubias, java fern, various mosses, and crypts is their slow growth. I've always found I had algae troubles if I ran might lights for too long or too bright. When I kept them truly low light everything looked great. They just took forever to fill in. My 125 is currently an algae farm(I'm winning but very slowly) which is partly do to my lights but mostly because of too much phosphate leaching from the potting soil I used in some planters for heavy root feeders like swords and crypts.
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Feb 8, 2017 19:02:52 GMT -5
I'm glad you said that. I was reading online and a bunch of people were saying to use Miracle Grow Organic Potting soil. Good idea or bad? Not going to be using CO2.
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Post by fermentedhiker on Feb 8, 2017 19:23:18 GMT -5
I'm glad you said that. I was reading online and a bunch of people were saying to use Miracle Grow Organic Potting soil. Good idea or bad? Not going to be using CO2. It's both  . It's definitely the cheapest way to provide nutrients for root feeders. Not necessary for anubias, java fern, or mosses though. I can however be messy. The trick is to not use too much and have a decent depth cap(such as sand) to keep it from getting kicked up. Of course diggers like some Cichlids and catfish might make a mess anyways. It hasn't been an issue for me as long as I had fast growing stem plants to harvest (like wisteria) but when I got rid of those I had issues with algae. My current setup is 125 with a 40Long sump and i used cut down plastic planters as pots along the back wall for swords, crypts, and aponogeton ) and it's been a bit much. Part of my problem is I lost access to my apex so I haven't set up a dimming schedule or been able to reduce the photoperiod. I'm slowly gaining ground on it though. If I was going to do it again I would probably just go straight sand and add root tabs to the root feeders if they looked like they were lacking(you can buy empty gel caps and fill them with osmocote). Less chance of a nutrient overload that way. What are you planning for livestock? |
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Feb 8, 2017 19:29:42 GMT -5
Going to be a mix of fish. She wants a NICE community. I told her her as long as there is nothing came. Not planning on doing to many different kinds of plants. Just basic, but beautiful. Mostly smallish fish (dwarf cichlids, tetras, maybe gourami, maybe angels...)
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Feb 8, 2017 19:49:18 GMT -5
Wanna do something like this  |
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Post by fermentedhiker on Feb 8, 2017 19:49:18 GMT -5
Sounds like a plan. Anubias and java fern are pretty easy as long as your aquascape has something to attach them too. I've used superglue gel just like for frags when I got sick of trying to tie them on with thread. Check out Buce's as well. A little pricier than anubias(which isn't cheap itself) and there are tons of different crypt varieties for you to make a stunning display.
I think small fish in a big tank makes for an awesome look. Just seems to be a better scale. Much less of a fish in a box feel. Plus it allows you to have large schools of something which always makes their behavior more natural. I know a lot of books recommend 6 fish for a school but I think it really should be closer to 12 to get the real effect. With a 60 I think you would have enough room for two large schools of something. So many choices; tetras, danios, rasbora, smaller barbs, pseudomugil rainbows........... Whatever you guys like.
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. It's definitely the cheapest way to provide nutrients for root feeders. Not necessary for anubias, java fern, or mosses though. I can however be messy. The trick is to not use too much and have a decent depth cap(such as sand) to keep it from getting kicked up. Of course diggers like some Cichlids and catfish might make a mess anyways. It hasn't been an issue for me as long as I had fast growing stem plants to harvest (like wisteria) but when I got rid of those I had issues with algae. My current setup is 125 with a 40Long sump and i used cut down plastic planters as pots along the back wall for swords, crypts, and aponogeton ) and it's been a bit much. Part of my problem is I lost access to my apex so I haven't set up a dimming schedule or been able to reduce the photoperiod. I'm slowly gaining ground on it though. If I was going to do it again I would probably just go straight sand and add root tabs to the root feeders if they looked like they were lacking(you can buy empty gel caps and fill them with osmocote). Less chance of a nutrient overload that way.