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Post by fermentedhiker on Dec 11, 2015 16:37:10 GMT -5
So I've got a side project tank going on using stuff I already had around. I decided to break down my cryptoheros nanoluteus setup since I ended up with three males. That tank is right beside my current mixed reef so I'm using the apex jr to run them both. Reusing the black moon sand from the cichlid setup and some of the dry rock I had leftover from my other setup.
Scape isn't going to great I don't think as I'm dealing with leftover pieces. My goal is to have room for the sps to grow so I have to keep it pretty low which means not a lot of stacking or caves.
I'm also reusing the two heaters from the cichlid setup just now controlled via my apex jr.
Filtration/sump is going to be a toms rapid pro wet/dry/skimmer that I've taken off another system. I'm going to remove all the bioballs and fill the wet section with reef rubble. The drip section will be left empty of biomedia and instead used for chemical(extra carbon, GFO etc..)
ATO will be a gravity fed version designed to work with the wet/dry filter.
Lighting is a reef radiance (chinese box light) rim mounted.
Livestock is going to center around a Malu anemone and a pair of either Darwin occe's or Maine mocha. I'm leaning toward the mocha at the moment. Corals will be almost entirely sps. I've reserved one small chunk of rock as an island for zoas. Other livestock skunk cleaner, peppermint shrimp, emerald crab, a regular porcelain crab and maybe some bummblebee shrimp, and possible a squat lobster. Not sure what if any other fish I might include.
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Post by fermentedhiker on Dec 11, 2015 18:56:08 GMT -5
I'm curious what you guys are running for intensities on the chinese boxes? I have to admit it doesn't seem super bright. I realize some of the spectrum involved in par is not what our eyes are sensitive to, but considering it's rated power it should be fairly bright at 100%. As it is my BML strips are both bright even though they are only 30watts apiece and even my finnex planted + which is 20W is a bit brighter. Hopefully even with it not be as visibly bright as I might like it'll be enough to keep SPS happy.
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Post by fermentedhiker on Dec 13, 2015 9:15:55 GMT -5
The light rim mounted ended up about 21.5" off of the sand bed. The moonlights seem way to bright to me and I probably won't run them much. Just a couple of hours after lights out so I can still look at things if I'm up. Any thoughts on what intensity will work at this height?
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Post by jasonandsarah on Dec 13, 2015 11:18:02 GMT -5
I'm curious what you guys are running for intensities on the chinese boxes? I have to admit it doesn't seem super bright. I realize some of the spectrum involved in par is not what our eyes are sensitive to, but considering it's rated power it should be fairly bright at 100%. As it is my BML strips are both bright even though they are only 30watts apiece and even my finnex planted + which is 20W is a bit brighter. Hopefully even with it not be as visibly bright as I might like it'll be enough to keep SPS happy. When I ran black boxes my blues were set to 100% and whites were around 40% when I was keeping sps. Before I had much sps they were both about 20% less. If I was you I'd consider adding a couple T5's. It'll help brighten it up and also add in the true UV your missing with black boxes. |
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Post by jasonandsarah on Dec 13, 2015 11:19:32 GMT -5
My lightswere about 28" off the sandbed so you may want to account for that.
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Post by fermentedhiker on Dec 13, 2015 19:25:43 GMT -5
I'm curious what you guys are running for intensities on the chinese boxes? I have to admit it doesn't seem super bright. I realize some of the spectrum involved in par is not what our eyes are sensitive to, but considering it's rated power it should be fairly bright at 100%. As it is my BML strips are both bright even though they are only 30watts apiece and even my finnex planted + which is 20W is a bit brighter. Hopefully even with it not be as visibly bright as I might like it'll be enough to keep SPS happy. When I ran black boxes my blues were set to 100% and whites were around 40% when I was keeping sps. Before I had much sps they were both about 20% less. If I was you I'd consider adding a couple T5's. It'll help brighten it up and also add in the true UV your missing with black boxes. How long a photoperiod were you running? This one will allow me to ramp both channels separately. It's clear that the return pump on the rapids pro isn't enough flow for the tank so I'll be adding a PH or two. Any recommendations for how much is needed to make sps happy in a 29? |
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Post by jasonandsarah on Dec 13, 2015 21:57:29 GMT -5
I was running around 11+ hours a day I believe. I think adding any small wave pump would work fine. Maybe an wp10 or rw8?
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Post by fermentedhiker on Dec 14, 2015 10:29:43 GMT -5
I was running around 11+ hours a day I believe. I think adding any small wave pump would work fine. Maybe an wp10 or rw8? I'll check those out. Had thought about running 2 smaller pump to get more chaotic flow (ie 2 koralina Nanos 425) but I like how the wp40 is more controllable |
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Post by fermentedhiker on Dec 14, 2015 10:31:05 GMT -5
I'm curious what you guys are running for intensities on the chinese boxes? I have to admit it doesn't seem super bright. I realize some of the spectrum involved in par is not what our eyes are sensitive to, but considering it's rated power it should be fairly bright at 100%. As it is my BML strips are both bright even though they are only 30watts apiece and even my finnex planted + which is 20W is a bit brighter. Hopefully even with it not be as visibly bright as I might like it'll be enough to keep SPS happy. When I ran black boxes my blues were set to 100% and whites were around 40% when I was keeping sps. Before I had much sps they were both about 20% less. If I was you I'd consider adding a couple T5's. It'll help brighten it up and also add in the true UV your missing with black boxes. Not sure how to add t5s to this tank as its so narrow. Something to puzzle over |
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Post by jasonandsarah on Dec 14, 2015 12:01:09 GMT -5
How wide is it? Got a top shot of the lights and rim of the tank?
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Post by fermentedhiker on Dec 14, 2015 13:50:47 GMT -5
How wide is it? Got a top shot of the lights and rim of the tank? The tank is a standard 29 so 12 inches wide. I think the light is around 8 inches but I'll take a pic tonight |
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Post by jasonandsarah on Dec 14, 2015 14:35:30 GMT -5
How wide is it? Got a top shot of the lights and rim of the tank? The tank is a standard 29 so 12 inches wide. I think the light is around 8 inches but I'll take a pic tonight You should be fine then. I'd make something to have the T5's attach to the sides of the Leds and go at the tank at an angle. One in the front and one in the back. |
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Post by fermentedhiker on Dec 14, 2015 18:51:34 GMT -5
I'll have to do some searching and see what's out there for t5 retrofit kits. What bulbs were you running?
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Post by jasonandsarah on Dec 15, 2015 11:27:52 GMT -5
Brs has good retro kits. I've always run some combo of ATI blue plus, purple plus or actinic plus. Also I didn't use a retro fit kit. I gutted a cheap T5 fixture and used that. It was an 8 bulb so I have lots of spares if something goes.
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Post by fermentedhiker on Dec 15, 2015 18:40:07 GMT -5
I was looking at those. about 121$ for the kit. Just for fun I attached a clamp lamp with a black light cfl to the led fixture to see what the extra UV would do. Hard to tell visually since it just makes the bacteria in the water fluoresce.
Also I'm looking for something to encrust the back wall like i'm doing with GSP on my other tank.
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