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Post by moulton712 on Mar 26, 2014 21:35:50 GMT -5
Bean animal is a simple design in theory but a little complex to execute. Here's a very quick summary... Purpose: dead silent overflow.... Designed so a flood is almost impossible. Three pipes: 1) Full siphon - draws about 80% of flow 2) open channel - draws 20 percent of flow and can increase as needed without adjustment... Also serves as a backup to the siphon and will turn into a full siphon if the emergency fails for some reason. 3) emergency drain - if siphon and open channel fail then this kicks in to prevent flood. If this fails then the open channel will go to a full siphon and prevent a flood All pipes drain 1" into sump.... Lots of backups, absolutely silent. It's simple theory. Honestly if you can make 1 drain you can make 3. |
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Post by Syntax on Mar 27, 2014 4:45:51 GMT -5
Yes it sticks to glass as well as regular silicone does. No mold inhibitors? this sounds like a good way to go. I'd rather not have to deal with getting glass cut and trying not to break it. |
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Post by Pokahpolice on Mar 27, 2014 6:23:16 GMT -5
Yes it sticks to glass as well as regular silicone does. No mold inhibitors? this sounds like a good way to go. I'd rather not have to deal with getting glass cut and trying not to break it. Cutting glass is one of the easiest things in the world to do. The tool is like $7 and if you can draw a straight line using a ruler you can cut glass. |
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Post by Frank on Mar 27, 2014 7:08:34 GMT -5
Yes it sticks to glass as well as regular silicone does. No mold inhibitors? this sounds like a good way to go. I'd rather not have to deal with getting glass cut and trying not to break it. Nothing listed for mild inhibitor. And i couldn't locate anything online where anyone had problems with it in an established reef. |
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Post by Tucker on Mar 27, 2014 7:27:02 GMT -5
Bean animal, once you get it in and adjusted is the best method of them all. Super high capacity you never knew you could have.
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Post by gotareef on Mar 27, 2014 7:56:03 GMT -5
the silicone will stick to the glass but not the acrylic you will need to scratch and scuff the acrylic so maybe it will work long term?
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Post by Syntax on Mar 27, 2014 8:01:31 GMT -5
No mold inhibitors? this sounds like a good way to go. I'd rather not have to deal with getting glass cut and trying not to break it. Cutting glass is one of the easiest things in the world to do. The tool is like $7 and if you can draw a straight line using a ruler you can cut glass. I agree. Glass cutting is easy; however, u would be concerned about trying to cut a 4'x4" piece without it breaking. |
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Post by gotareef on Mar 27, 2014 8:07:49 GMT -5
really? why? hell if its that big of a worry just use a saw to cut it...
or if you use just a cutting wheel make sure to use thinner on it when cutting, this will give you a clean score and should "sing" to you when scoring. then use a pair of snapping pliers and it snaps perfect. grinder to clean up the sharp edges and done
allot easier than using a backwards plywood blade to cut the acrylic then sand, then "weld".... the easiest way to "glue" acrylic together is with acupuncture needles. you need to have a gap between the 2 pieces of acrylic these make perfect spacing. then use a syringe and weldon 3 fill the gap with "glue" let dry then remove the needles and glue again (I hate acrylic, also lexan is stronger)
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Post by gotareef on Mar 27, 2014 8:08:31 GMT -5
im 10 min away and have anything you can think of to work with glass
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Post by gotareef on Mar 27, 2014 8:32:21 GMT -5
like ryan said 4" seems a bit wide I would go 2" with a piece of screen over the overflow this way the box dosnt block so much light
I remember a friend (rich if anyone remembers, how could you forget) he put a ctc on a 300g? 8' tank it blocked allot of light so he ended up modding it so part of it was his frag rack
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Post by Pokahpolice on Mar 27, 2014 8:35:31 GMT -5
That guy was legit crazy...300g tank in a 500sq foot apartment
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Post by gotareef on Mar 27, 2014 11:55:46 GMT -5
he worked at a restaurant so he could eat, and every penny he had went into his tank.
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Post by Syntax on Mar 27, 2014 14:35:44 GMT -5
like ryan said 4" seems a bit wide I would go 2" with a piece of screen over the overflow this way the box dosnt block so much light I remember a friend (rich if anyone remembers, how could you forget) he put a ctc on a 300g? 8' tank it blocked allot of light so he ended up modding it so part of it was his frag rack I agree as well. If you are not going to have any PVC in the overflow then 4" Kyle too much. Not sure what I would do since you already had it built. |
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Post by Syntax on Mar 27, 2014 14:37:15 GMT -5
im 10 min away and have anything you can think of to work with glass I just may take you up on that offer. Would you recommend Portland glass for materials? |
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NateG
Full Member
Posts: 222
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Post by NateG on Mar 27, 2014 14:56:39 GMT -5
At Easy Aquariums I have an acrylic blade on the table saw. Ill trim it for you no charge. As for a 4' length of 1/4" glass, i can take off 1/2" np with running pliers.
PLEASE come in and get some black RTV 103 silicone adhesive. It will look and work much better than anything else. Funny enough we had a bulkheads flange break clean off on one of the tanks in store. This happened a couple months after install. It was on the other hand a used bulkhead. Removing the overflow box took a lot of time and effort. A reef safe silicone adhesive (not sealant) is what the big manufacturers use to bond their abs overflows to the glass tanks. We have both gun sizes and tubes.
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