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Post by tripleridge on Oct 12, 2015 14:18:24 GMT -5
I have 46 gallon Bow front with all sorts of corals, grabs, snails, shrimp and fish etc. I have no QT tank. How do I treat my fish for Ick at this point? Thanks Ed
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Post by ryansweatt2004 on Oct 12, 2015 16:19:50 GMT -5
Cleaner shrimp and clean healthy water parameters are best bet. That and feeding a good quality food like PE mysis works for me. Maybe I'm lucky but I don't quarantine any fish anymore and I've had no issues what so ever.
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Post by jasonbowdoin on Oct 12, 2015 17:02:16 GMT -5
I'm with Ryan. Give it a few weeks and it should be gone. Ryan put it best to me..( is like us having a cold)
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Post by jasonandsarah on Oct 12, 2015 17:12:31 GMT -5
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Post by jmerr86 on Oct 12, 2015 18:40:46 GMT -5
I use herbtana Right before adding any new members to my tank an for a week following with good results for the most part but it does make my skimmer go crazy
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Post by tripleridge on Oct 12, 2015 19:37:38 GMT -5
Thank you for the help!!
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Post by reefkprz on Oct 13, 2015 7:17:35 GMT -5
in my experience hands down the winner for ich treatment on fish is always copper, that involves setting up a quarantine tank and removing all the fish from your dt to treat them, and keeping them out of the DT for a minimum of 6 weeks. at 6 weeks ALL of the ich in your DT WILL be dead without a host ich cannot continue its life cycle and will be effectively removed from your DT. once you are sure your fish are cured then you can return them to your dt. Ideally quarantine regiment of 6 weeks should be SOP for everything, since anything can introduce ich to your tank. yes algaes snails corals rocks everything.
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Post by Pokahpolice on Oct 13, 2015 7:50:59 GMT -5
in my experience hands down the winner for ich treatment on fish is always copper, that involves setting up a quarantine tank and removing all the fish from your dt to treat them, and keeping them out of the DT for a minimum of 6 weeks. at 6 weeks ALL of the ich in your DT WILL be dead without a host ich cannot continue its life cycle and will be effectively removed from your DT. once you are sure your fish are cured then you can return them to your dt. Ideally quarantine regiment of 6 weeks should be SOP for everything, since anything can introduce ich to your tank. yes algaes snails corals rocks everything. I have to agree with this. Copper treatment is a pain in the rear but in my experience (this summer) I was very unsuccessful just 'feeding well' and adding garlic once I had a noticeable outbreak. I lost about 80% of my inhabitants because I didn't treat quick enough. If you do decide to treat with copper, there are a few things you MUST do. Do not treat in the display if you have corals. Copper is toxic to corals and will kill them all. Get a copper test kit and test daily....that means EVERYDAY. The levels are very important to be successful. Let us know what the plan is and we can give you more advice based on the direction you decide to go. There are many options. People have had success with the tank transfer method as well.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Oct 13, 2015 8:33:00 GMT -5
Obviously copper is the best treatment for ich but the OP said no QT and didn't seem interested in setting one up. I've personally gone through this early on and now my tank never shows signs of ich. Even on newly introduced fish. I do agree and it's mostly because I think it can be really hard for a newer reefer to keep quality water, fish happy and well fed while also not building up to much nutrients in your water. Then again QT can be tricky for a newb as well. Also I believe they've upped the amount of time you should leave your tank fallow. If I'm remembering correctly the newer studys are saying you should keep your tank fish and new additions free for at least 72-80 days witch is more like 10-12 weeks. I could be wrong though that's just off memory.
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Post by Pokahpolice on Oct 13, 2015 9:05:47 GMT -5
^^yes the fallow period is 72 days. Ich is a funny one, I've had it on a few fish newly introduced and never had a real outbreak like many on here have stated. Then, this summer I introduced a Kole Tang and every fish looked terrible a few weeks later. As some of you know, Ich can always be present but be kept in check by the fish's immune system. Healthy happy fish tend to fight of the parasites well...but once you have an outbreak, I don't think you'll see it go away on it's own.
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Post by reefkprz on Oct 13, 2015 9:52:43 GMT -5
Obviously copper is the best treatment for ich but the OP said no QT and didn't seem interested in setting one up. I basically read the title, I did see that he had no qt, however that won't change my answer. Because I know after years and years it really is the best option, for many things, I have prevented zoa spiders, acro eating nudis, mantis shrimp, gorrilla crabs, zoa pox and a couple other nasty things from making it to my DT through judicious use of a quarantine tank. Even if the original poster doesn't seem interested in setting up a QT I feel as a responsible aquarist offering the advice may help change his/her mind and save them a lot of headaches down the road. an ounce of prevention is worth about 700$ worth of maybe cures. Thank you for the correction on the time period for being fallow, I'll remember that.
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Post by jmerr86 on Oct 13, 2015 11:30:06 GMT -5
This is were herbtana has its limits I have added fish before that were new arrivals at the LPS and have ich show itself as soon as they hit the water it seems like and sometimes loose that fish but no other fish become infected
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Post by tripleridge on Oct 13, 2015 20:02:02 GMT -5
It's not that I'm not interested in setting up a QT tank, it's just that I have not. I will be making a room in the cellar with My RO/DI set up, my sump, and a QT tank, But it takes time and money. I should have known better to have fish without a QT tank.
I lost another fish today, second clown fish. My Kole Tang is looking pretty sad also. His eyes are foggy, and has quite a bit of ick on his face. It's not looking to good at this point.
I have a question? The frag swap is this weekend, I was planning on attending. But now I'm not sure if I should be adding anything more to the tank at this point. What do you all think?
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Post by jasonandsarah on Oct 13, 2015 21:01:54 GMT -5
It's not that I'm not interested in setting up a QT tank, it's just that I have not. I will be making a room in the cellar with My RO/DI set up, my sump, and a QT tank, But it takes time and money. I should have known better to have fish without a QT tank. I lost another fish today, second clown fish. My Kole Tang is looking pretty sad also. His eyes are foggy, and has quite a bit of ick on his face. It's not looking to good at this point. I have a question? The frag swap is this weekend, I was planning on attending. But now I'm not sure if I should be adding anything more to the tank at this point. What do you all think? That's completely up to you. Sad to say this but if the tang doesn't make it will you have any fish left? If not then adding some corals on Sunday wouldn't hurt so you have something new to look at for your fallow period. It can be a rough task to go without any fish for that long. So maybe the additions might help? Plus it's not gonna really effect your 10 week fishless period by much. After the swap you can focus on saving up for a QT and getting your fish room downstairs done. The long wait can also be a good time to research and learn as much as humanly possible. Really sorry for your troubles, this is the stretch that will test your commitment for sure. The first 3-4 months are normally expensive but easy. Then the rough parts start to kick in and a lot of people quit. If you make it through this period you'll be a reefer for life!
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Post by Pokahpolice on Oct 14, 2015 9:07:40 GMT -5
My Kole Tang is looking pretty sad also. His eyes are foggy, and has quite a bit of ick on his face. It's not looking to good at this point. ... maineaquaria.com/thread/3375/lookingWhat made you ignore this thread and get a Tang anyway? I can't say that I'm any better, I went with a juvenile Kole Tang in my 57g (knowing better) and that was just about as successful as yours but I have a 150g total water volume system...not that it helped any.
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