|
|
Post by scoobnoob on Jul 3, 2015 13:48:11 GMT -5
I have a RO unit that has a resin in the final canister it changes from blue to light brown as it's capacity is exhausted. I purchased some new BRS resin for it and the bag says nuclear grade....now I'm no trying to fuel doc browns Delores I just want my tds to be zero. But really what exactly does nuclear grade mean for this product.
|
|
|
|
Post by jasonandsarah on Jul 3, 2015 14:40:44 GMT -5
It's supposed to be the best. I'm not so sure it's any better but that's what they say.
They sell nuclear grade on ebay as well. Normally it's not color changing though I thought.
Sent from my SM-N910R4 using proboards
|
|
|
|
Post by moulton712 on Jul 4, 2015 14:31:03 GMT -5
A mixed bed (nuclear grade) DI resin is best for reefing, as it contains both cation and anion removing media, usually in a 40/60 mixture.
I'm thinking about adding a 2nd di container with just anion di resin. That will take out silicates and phosphates even more.
Color change is nice. Since water source from municipal is never constant
|
|
|
|
Post by jasonandsarah on Jul 4, 2015 15:34:14 GMT -5
A mixed bed (nuclear grade) DI resin is best for reefing, as it contains both cation and anion removing media, usually in a 40/60 mixture. I'm thinking about adding a 2nd di container with just anion di resin. That will take out silicates and phosphates even more. Color change is nice. Since water source from municipal is never constant I use silica buster di cartridges from spectra pure. They work great for a all around removal imo. Great discription though Dennis! I didn't know that's what the nuclear di was. Sent from my SM-N910R4 using proboards |
|
