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Post by DLyshon on Jun 7, 2015 21:40:59 GMT -5
I have a 20g quarantine tank set up with a sponge filter and air stone with 2 pic pipes.
I have high nitrites and high nitrates. Ammonia is little high too. I have too fish in there right now, 1 inch blue tang and a clown fish.
There is cupramine at .30
Also did a 30% water change couple days ago.
What do you guys think I should do? Is this something I should be worried about?
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Post by spotfin on Jun 8, 2015 4:51:10 GMT -5
Sounds like the tank doesn't have enough good bacteria. Yes, should worry. Your fish may die. Can you get some mature bio filter media from another tank?
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jun 8, 2015 4:56:10 GMT -5
If you have prime I'd add some right away to minimize the damage to your fish. Ammonia especially will just reek havoc on marine fish's gills.
In a 20g tank you should be able to do a 50-60% water change pretty easily and also make sure you check your sponge filter and stuff those are just bad junk traps imo.
Sent from my SM-N910R4 using proboards
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Post by DLyshon on Jun 8, 2015 13:28:03 GMT -5
Thanks guy. I talked to my local Fish store and they said do a 50% water change with my DT water because that has good bacteria in it. So I did that and see what happens. Also cleaned the sponge and cleaned the bottom of the tank.
Hopefully it works out
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jun 8, 2015 13:46:09 GMT -5
Thanks guy. I talked to my local Fish store and they said do a 50% water change with my DT water because that has good bacteria in it. So I did that and see what happens. Also cleaned the sponge and cleaned the bottom of the tank. Hopefully it works out Who's your Lfs? Not bagging on anyone but using your tank water won't be very helpful because in an established tank there's very little to no free floating bacteria. Also any nitrates you have in your display tank will be getting put right back into your Qt. Be very careful with using the same buckets or any equipment for both systems as the last thing you want is to transfer any parasites or even copper into your display tank. Sent from my SM-N910R4 using proboards |
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Post by spotfin on Jun 8, 2015 17:12:26 GMT -5
Prime will help. Use dt water if that is all you have available. You need to reduce ammonia as soon as possible. Grab some rubble or sand from your dt and add it to your at tank.
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Post by foggman on Jun 8, 2015 18:35:27 GMT -5
Not sure where your located but I could loan you some live rock I have have in my sup that is full cured and full of good bacteria, also at this point the fish would probably be better in your display instead of QT unless you can fix that ASAP
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Post by DLyshon on Jun 8, 2015 18:49:23 GMT -5
I'm in the Bangor area. The reason I set up the qaurantine tank in the first place was because i had ich in my DT tank about 2-3 weeks ago and lose a yellow tang and a clown fish. Now i'm QT everything before I put it in my display. On my display I did a wonder change after and just been letting it sit.
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Post by DLyshon on Jun 8, 2015 19:34:00 GMT -5
Let me tell you a little bit about why I have a QT. I first started this hobby about a month ago and i got ich in my tank and killed my blue tang and 2 clown fish. I did a water change on my DT and been letting it sit for 2-3 weeks now. I have added a protein skimmer and a UV sterilizer. I set up my QT 2 weeks ago also and added another blue tang and a clown to make sure they are healthy before I put anything in my DT tank. I read i should let it sit for 28 days. But, my blue tang in my QT, and clown fish show no signs of anything as they eat and hangout together and swim around. So, i'm kinda in a loss loss situation because i don't want them to die in my QT tank because of the levels, and don't want them to get ICH until it's out of the tank hopefully.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jun 9, 2015 6:34:17 GMT -5
Let me tell you a little bit about why I have a QT. I first started this hobby about a month ago and i got ich in my tank and killed my blue tang and 2 clown fish. I did a water change on my DT and been letting it sit for 2-3 weeks now. I have added a protein skimmer and a UV sterilizer. I set up my QT 2 weeks ago also and added another blue tang and a clown to make sure they are healthy before I put anything in my DT tank. I read i should let it sit for 28 days. But, my blue tang in my QT, and clown fish show no signs of anything as they eat and hangout together and swim around. So, i'm kinda in a loss loss situation because i don't want them to die in my QT tank because of the levels, and don't want them to get ICH until it's out of the tank hopefully. You should do some more reading on the life cycle of Ich first. I'd hate to see you go through a 28 day QT period for nothing and if you put them back in the tank in 28 days that's what will happen. The life cycle of marine ich can be more like 72 days. It can end quicker but why take that chance after Qt the fish that long? If your that worried about ich go the full 72 days and Qt all new fish. If you don't plan o. Always Qt'ing fish then put them back in the display and keep them fat and healthy. Marine ich is a Pita but it's not the end of the world. reefsanctuary.com/forum/index.php?threads/marine-ich-myths-and-facts.23132/Sent from my SM-N910R4 using proboards |
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Post by ryansweatt2004 on Jun 9, 2015 6:39:05 GMT -5
Quarantine tanks are kind of one of those things that people either love or hate. I personally think they are a waste of time. I've never quarantined any of my fish and the only ick outbreak I've ever had was in my first 29 gallon saltwater tank I had which was a poor stress inducing system. I don't run a UV sterilizer either. I've been in this hobby 9 years and 8 of them have been ick free. The issue with ick is stress. Healthy fish have a healthy slime coat and immune system to fight off ick. If fish are in too small of a tank, being bullied or the water quality is poor, it causes stress to the fish, allows their immune systems to weaken and therefore allows ick to take hold. The only way to truly keep ick out of your tank is to QT every single fish, invert, rock, or coral you ever want to add to your tank for the entire ick life cycle each time.
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