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Post by fermentedhiker on Mar 9, 2015 9:25:25 GMT -5
I'm starting to lean towards putting in a RODI system. I noticed a lot of people just have them plumbed to a un-pressurized container like a brute trash can with a float valve for a shutoff. Of course this saves some money over a pressure vessel, but I'm not sure it's a big savings. VS a couple hundred for the tank, you now have to buy to float shutoffs plus an extra pump to move it from the storage tank to your ATO.
So I'm leaning toward hard plumbing mine to something like a 20 gallon RODI storage tank. This will allow me to put a RODI faucet at the kitchen sink as well as one near my ATO reservoir.
The only issue I see is with operating pressure. Since I have a fiberglass pressure tank on my well it probably has a 40 lb pressure switch. RODI's usually operate at 50 PSI or above for optimal performance, so I might require a booster pump to feed it,although this is also true even if I was dumping it in a Brute trash can.
Anyone hard plumbed their RODI system?
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Post by foggman on Mar 9, 2015 11:38:12 GMT -5
if you cant get above 40PSI a booster pump is needed, as far as the pressure tank, you would only need this for drinking water, and I have heard that you shouldn't drink RODI water, as it removes all the minerals from the water and your body needs some of them, but that is just what i heard i would do your own research on that one. the reason you dont need a pressure tank is that the pressure tank only holds something like 3-5 gallons, you can probably get bigger ones. so once you used all the water from the pressure tank it is just going to come out slow, that is why it is ok on the drinking side. cause you usually only use about a gallon at a time if you want to keep it cold in the fridge. i have my system pulmbed up so I have RO water to my fridge and RODI to the tank.
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Post by fermentedhiker on Mar 9, 2015 15:11:13 GMT -5
I agree with not drinking RODI water not being good for you, although I think it more has to do with pure water doing actual damage as opposed to just mineral deficiency.
I don't see why drinking water is the only reason for a pressure tank though. I don't have any place to put a storage container of a useful size on the first floor. A pressurized system avoids having to deal with remote pumps etc...
As far as not holding much you're right, actually it's worse than you said. Since pressure tanks usually hold less than half their container volume(the lower your pressure the less they hold), but I was thinking of using a 20 gallon tank so that have enough in it for water changes without waiting for it to refill. A 40 gallon would be even better, but now you're starting to get kind of pricey.
I may look at putting one of those small tanks under the kitchen sink for watering plants and filling the cloths iron etc... and just plumb it from the RO section and then plumb the DI to the holding pressure tank for WCs
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Post by jmerr86 on Mar 9, 2015 15:57:51 GMT -5
My RODI unit has a duel out 1 for drinking that has a extra carbon and 1 for top off. I installed a 5gl pressure tank after the RO but before the DI and extra carbon to pressurize both in order to push the drinking water to the kitchen sink and the DI to my sump (yes I pump my RODI straight into my tank but to each there own)
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Post by gotareef on Mar 10, 2015 10:41:25 GMT -5
I have a 3g pressure tank on mine without a booster pump a pressure tank will give you water on demand...
the tank will fill with a trickle of water and push it threw the ro membrane at 60-80 psi
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Post by fermentedhiker on Mar 10, 2015 13:00:43 GMT -5
I'm thinking I need a booster pump because of the well pressure tank. Standard well pressure tanks come as either 40 or 60 PSI precharge. I'm assuming that since I have a fiberglass tank and not a steel one that I have the lower PSI switch. I'll have to find a way to check the actual pressure as that would save me money if I didn't need a booster(149$ on BRS).
My plan at this point it to go from the cold water supply to the booster pump if necessary, then to the RO unit which will feed a 4 gallon pressure tank, which will supply three output lines, one to the icemaker, one to the kitchen sink, and one to the DI unit, then from the DI unit to a 20 or 40 gallon pressure tank to a shutoff valve in the sump area.
Now I just have to find a way to get from 1/2" pex to 1/4" mur-lok
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Post by gotareef on Mar 11, 2015 8:59:53 GMT -5
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Post by fermentedhiker on Mar 13, 2015 22:14:31 GMT -5
Broke down an ordered a 6 stage watersaver plus from BRS. Let the plumbing fun begin.
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Post by gotareef on Mar 14, 2015 11:39:39 GMT -5
easy to plumb... should have a needle valve to connect in water and a saddle clamp to connect drain water...
you will still probably need a booster pump with that system on well water.....
order a couple t fittings and some extra tube.... you will need it to connect to ice maker,ro.....
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Post by fermentedhiker on Mar 14, 2015 14:42:22 GMT -5
I've got to play around with the fittings some though. I'm all pex now so I need to find/make a substitute for a saddle valve to go from 1/2 pex to 1/4 mur-lok. The saddle clamp drain is an issue as it's designed to go above a sink trap and since I was planning a a basement mount none will be available so I'll have to fabricate something if I can find a suitable place to attach it.
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Post by gotareef on Mar 14, 2015 22:03:27 GMT -5
Basement may be an issue for you... Actually it's the reason mine is under the kitchen sink instead of the basement.... It was easier to run the drain to the dishwasher drain
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Post by jmerr86 on Mar 15, 2015 7:11:39 GMT -5
I have mine mounted in the laundry room above the washer-dryer.
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