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Post by Syntax on Jun 16, 2014 21:12:50 GMT -5
I leak tested my system yesterday and noticed a very small leak in the sump bulkhead. I tried loosening the bulkhead, tightening it, loosening the nut all the way and using a Qtip with alcohol to clean it and I'm still getting a leak. The leak is coming from the threads where the nut tightens and from the bottom of the bulkhead. I'm stumped. I have no way of removing the bulkhead unless I replace my socket end connector for my true union ball valve. I don't even know if I can get a spare socket connector? If i have to replace the plumbing from the true union ball valve it will be a sizable cost. The Hayward ball valve is $18.00, 2 pvc elbows and a bulkhead.
Anyone have any suggestions.
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Post by Pokahpolice on Jun 17, 2014 6:14:38 GMT -5
Try moving the gasket. I've found that sometimes if you losen the threads and rotate the gasket you'll get a good seal.
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Post by gotareef on Jun 17, 2014 6:39:27 GMT -5
make sure your not over tightening it (it stretches the gasket) worst comes to worse kalk it
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Post by maineultraclassic on Jun 17, 2014 7:21:39 GMT -5
Hand tighten the nut, then give it 1/4 turn with a wrench.
Don't over tighten it, it stretches or rips the gasket.
At worse, put some silicone in there and tighten it.
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Post by foggman on Jun 17, 2014 7:33:47 GMT -5
Can also try Teflon thread tape on the threads, may help
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Post by Syntax on Jun 17, 2014 8:05:00 GMT -5
Here's a picture, not great but it illustrates the issue at hand. The bulkhead is a socket type so the PVC elbow is glued inside the bulkhead, there is no leakage from that joint. The leak is coming from the bottom of the tightening nut and from the threads that the nut screws onto to tighten the bulkhead. In hindsight I should of used a socket connector for the true union ball valve and all would be good, an easy fix to replace the bulkhead. I've tried everything that has been mentioned so far without success except silicone. I've read that silicone will degrade the rubber washer and cause the bulkhead to fail.
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Post by Syntax on Jun 17, 2014 8:11:03 GMT -5
Better picture
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jun 17, 2014 8:24:42 GMT -5
I know when you do "bulk heads" on pools and stuff they tell you to always use Vaseline aka petroleum jelly. I just did a quick search on it and Anthony caflo recommends using it on all bulk heads according to someone on reef central? They also had the material data sheet witch said it was insoluble in water so that should mean it's aquarium safe? Just a thought.
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Post by BriMc on Jun 17, 2014 9:25:17 GMT -5
I know for a fact manufacturers state not to use any lubricant on the rubber seal.
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Post by ryansweatt2004 on Jun 17, 2014 9:55:14 GMT -5
Yea I have to agree, many lubricants can blister rubber. I used to work with rubber conveyor belts and getting any petroleum based product on the rubber was always a concern because it would ruin a belt. This is just my opinion but that plumbing looks like a pain in the but to work on if something fails. Also the the major downfall to having an external main pump. If I were you I'd scrap that S bend and slip union out and put a female threaded bulkhead with a threaded union and straight pipe between your sump and your main pump. That would make it a lot easier to work on if you have a seal fail again.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jun 17, 2014 10:14:03 GMT -5
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Post by Syntax on Jun 17, 2014 11:01:38 GMT -5
Yea I have to agree, many lubricants can blister rubber. I used to work with rubber conveyor belts and getting any petroleum based product on the rubber was always a concern because it would ruin a belt. This is just my opinion but that plumbing looks like a pain in the but to work on if something fails. Also the the major downfall to having an external main pump. If I were you I'd scrap that S bend and slip union out and put a female threaded bulkhead with a threaded union and straight pipe between your sump and your main pump. That would make it a lot easier to work on if you have a seal fail again. I actually designed the plumbing very carefully so I could service everything from the front of the tank. I did make the mistake of not planning the plumbing from the bulkhead to the pump very well. I was thinking as I was glueing the socket end cap to the true union ball valve that I should be using the threaded end caps (ball valve came with both) and decided it wasn't worth another trip to home depot and that it probably won't leak... I got it wrong and am going to pay with time and money for my miscalculation, I'm pissed at myself for getting that part wrong. I'll rework the plumbing so I can isolate the bulkhead... the ball valve is a union so I can easily disconnect the return pump for servicing. I've spent countless hours on this project so far, i'm trying to stay positive but this setback is very frustrating.
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Post by industry on Jun 17, 2014 12:32:50 GMT -5
Seems like Teflon tape on the threads would work.
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Post by Syntax on Jun 17, 2014 12:54:14 GMT -5
Seems like Teflon tape on the threads would work. This is not a threaded bulkhead, the threads are only for securing the nut that secures the bulkhead in place... the leak is coming from the seal.
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Post by gotareef on Jun 17, 2014 13:51:21 GMT -5
is the seal on the inside of the glass?
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