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Post by n00b- Ryan [Poland] on Jun 10, 2014 14:20:51 GMT -5
Ehhh... It appears Brian gets the gold star.. a separated rock reads ~.20 -~.25 .... So the question is.. just wait it out.... or tear it down to treat the rocks... How will treating effect my livestock and corals?..
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Post by Pokahpolice on Jun 10, 2014 15:27:40 GMT -5
Personally, I would tear it down after reading the thread Brian shared. My original opinion was that it wouldn't take that long to get under control but from others that shared their experience it can take forever. I'd tear it out and buy live rock.
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Post by BriMc on Jun 10, 2014 17:28:30 GMT -5
In a previous topic I stated that I was against treating rock with muriatic acid or bleach which I still am. My reasoning for this is first I have done both, the rock cured with bleach I dumped because I was not confident that the bleach could ever get completely rinsed off. Rock is porous and some of the bleach must get into the pours and I never felt that the rock ever lost the bleach smell even after rinsing for a week and air drying in the sun. Muriatic acid, first off this stuff is bad, I used a very diluted solution and the bins foamed over for hours. When I remover the rock from the solution there was a pasty white almost like clay coating to the rock. What I discovered was the acid actually erodes the calcium and makes the rock smaller and until it sets softens the outside. Some of the smaller thinner walled rock was unusable. Some of us reefers who were from the Boston area bought large amounts of the old Marco rock. The stuff looked great and shapes and sizes were awesome and at prices between 2.00 and 2.60 a pound it was a steal. The problem was the rock was harvested from the ocean, power washed, put in a warehouse and dried. There was fauna that was in the crevices that died hence phosphate which absorbed into the rock. I am trying lanthanum chloride on a few pieces of the Marco rock I know have high PH readings. The thing I like about lanthanum chloride is you add it to the water column and it immediately adheres to the phosphate without soaking into the rock.
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Post by n00b- Ryan [Poland] on Jun 10, 2014 17:32:17 GMT -5
Now are you dosing it through a 10 micron sock? Or in a container with just rocks and water?
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Post by BriMc on Jun 10, 2014 17:46:46 GMT -5
I am doing both, I put one rock in a container and added the LC directly to the water and the other is in a 20 gallon tall with an over flow and a small Rubbermaid container, the overflow is draining into a 10 micron sock.
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Post by n00b- Ryan [Poland] on Jun 10, 2014 17:50:59 GMT -5
Def let me know the outcome... I have a 29g so it wouldn't be much different then your test environment.
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Post by n00b- Ryan [Poland] on Jun 30, 2014 10:44:51 GMT -5
.. Looking to see what your outcome is/was BriMc
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Post by BriMc on Jul 1, 2014 11:53:10 GMT -5
The first round of testing was scrapped because their are a few types of phosphate removers, there is one for spa and then one for pools that is just a phosphate remover. I used the wrong one and ender up having silky smooth hands lol. I changed the way the chemical is being introduced and how long the contact time between the chemical and the water by using two reactors and the reactors dump into a 100 micron filter sock. So far it looks like the chemical binds with phosphate well. Using the two reactors also allows the precip to stay in the reactors lightening the work load on the filter sock. I will begin taking phosphate test next weekend.
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Post by n00b- Ryan [Poland] on Jul 2, 2014 15:45:57 GMT -5
sweet thanks for the update
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