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Post by n00b- Ryan [Poland] on Jun 6, 2014 20:50:27 GMT -5
... I am still battling a fierce alage takeover attempt... Even with manual removal and all...I'm not getting the upper hand. Anyone have any experiance running a UV sterilizer to resolve this type of issue?
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Post by Tucker on Jun 7, 2014 7:04:46 GMT -5
My buddy used to run one to cure ich in his tank, he noticed a reduction in how bad the outbreak was but the outbreak was still there. When it comes to uv it would break down floating algae spores, therefore not allow them to reproduce as much as before, however when you kill them off they become nutrients and need to be effectively removed by a skimmer. Here is a good read all the way at the bottom of this article on UV. Although it is a little dated, this is one of the first articles I read when I started out. www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/2/beginnerI find the best method for removing any outbreak is attacking it with a larger, oversized skimmer, constant removal and a clean up crew (hint hint kole tang lol) to hit it at the source. If uv is an option for you excellent, however dependent on the quality of the bulb, will need to get replaced every 6-12 months. Is it effective, yes in my opinion if you keep up on the maintenance, and get a skimmer to match or run a lot of carbon each week to catch it. It will make a large dent in the spores ability to spawn. Lastly if you have a refugium that could help a lot, cheaper than a uv, and provides nutrient export that you can see daily, however can become a detritus trap if you don't clean often.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jun 7, 2014 7:52:00 GMT -5
Are you running a reactor? If I was you I'd get my water thoroughly tested and find out what feeding the algae nitrates, phosphates or something else? Probably run a gfo reactor witch would help more then a uv sterilizer imo. Algae in a reef tank is sometimes more then people let on. I currently have 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates and I'm still battling this slime algae! It's a mother plucker! Check everything twice
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Post by Pokahpolice on Jun 7, 2014 9:15:24 GMT -5
I'd invest in a reactor before a UV sterilizer if you're not already running GFO. I ran a UV on my last set up and a dual reactor (Carbon/GFO) on my current and feel that the GFO better pinpoints what you're trying to eliminate which is phosphates. Also, manually removing (tearing out) some algae will cause it to spread by releasing spores into the water. Personally, I shy away from this method.
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Post by BriMc on Jun 7, 2014 10:09:54 GMT -5
Pro's Helps kill free floating ich and parasites Helps kill free floating algae spores a good addition to assist filtration
Con's Kills anything good in the water column such as pods, Rotifers, and Plankton.
Recommended to run UV a with your "on" light cycle
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Post by n00b- Ryan [Poland] on Jun 7, 2014 14:05:54 GMT -5
I agree, I'm more than likely battling a phos issue. I started my tank with dry rock and tap water... Then I was able to get a 4-stage ro/di. I have an 18 in HOB fuge with about 3" sand bed and macro...
I don't currently have a reactor although I was running GFO and AC in a mesh bag tossed in the fuge... I have a hydro skimmer and it pulls out some pretty greenish but watery gunk.. But it also doesn't foam 100% of the time....
So yeah.. Looking for a way out
-Ryan
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jun 8, 2014 8:33:05 GMT -5
Buy a two little fishies 150 reactor they're like 35$ and I'm sure you have a small pump laying around somewhere? A reactor is much more effective at removing almost anything versus a mesh bag filled with media but especially gfo because it's supposed to tumble and when it's in a bag it clumps and it's less efficient and last much less time.
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Post by BriMc on Jun 8, 2014 10:11:29 GMT -5
My opinion would be to find the source of the Phosphate. Running GFO is suppose to be for polishing off the remaining low reading of phosphate not to hide a problem. I would change the food I was feeding, test your water source, test your tank water, how dirty is your sand bed, what are you using for sand bed substrate, live rock where is it from how was it treated, what type of lighting are you using, if fluorescent or MH how old and what type are the lamps, How is the water movement in the tank, is your skimmer really doing its job. If you are having a major battle with algae running GFO is really a band aid.
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Post by speedyron on Jun 8, 2014 13:44:16 GMT -5
i run uv and doesnt seem to affect algae at all. when i have algae problems usualy the skimmer is not functioning properly. sometimes stuff clogs up air intake so bubbles are reduced. try blowing thru air intake tube see if its feels restricted or just pull off pump intake and check the hole air tube comes in
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Post by speedyron on Jun 8, 2014 13:47:37 GMT -5
oh and make sure pin wheel has not got stuff on it and is intact
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Post by n00b- Ryan [Poland] on Jun 8, 2014 18:41:35 GMT -5
My opinion would be to find the source of the Phosphate. Running GFO is suppose to be for polishing off the remaining low reading of phosphate not to hide a problem. I would change the food I was feeding, test your water source, test your tank water, how dirty is your sand bed, what are you using for sand bed substrate, live rock where is it from how was it treated, what type of lighting are you using, if fluorescent or MH how old and what type are the lamps, How is the water movement in the tank, is your skimmer really doing its job. If you are having a major battle with algae running GFO is really a band aid. Currently I'm using Hikari marine-s and feed pretty light.. Only have two clowns...with a fire shrimp to clean house after. Water source reports undetectable as well as the rodi water... Substrate is a 50/50 mix of crushed coral and reef sand for which I have been vacuuming every other water change ( bi-weekly) since this battle started... I started with about 50lbs of dead rock from reef cleaners and about 10lbs from easy... That cured and cycled for at least 6 months before I even added my first fish/coral.... I did have a basic clean up crew though. Lighting, I started out with a dual bulb t5 setup.. But now run a 150w MH with a Phionix 14k bulb that is aout 6 months ... WaterMovement., I have two hydro 240s a rio400 running fully open that supplies the fuge, and a donated pump that is branded "550"... As for the skimmer, it's a Hydor skim slim running 24/7... It foams on an off and I get I pretty dark greenish liquid with large film chunks here and there... I just did a complete tear-down and clean with little change... I would LOVE to find the cause of this... I hate bandaids
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Post by n00b- Ryan [Poland] on Jun 8, 2014 18:45:51 GMT -5
... And I should mention... EVERY water change I blast away like a mad man all my rocks and substrate with the siphon tube just inches away....an attempt to get everything I can get my hands on...
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Post by BriMc on Jun 8, 2014 19:18:39 GMT -5
your rock from both easy and especially the dead from reef cleaners did you allow it to soak for a few days and check the levels from the water it sat in. I know none of us do this but it is a good start to stop issues down the road. If you can I would take a piece of each and put it in a container enough to cover it for a few days and then check the levels in both containers. There has also been a lot of debate for years about mixing different substrates the though that was always rule of thumb was large size crushed coral allowed food and waste to settle between the spaces causing all sorts of havoc. Mixing crushed coral and sugar fine or sand grade substrate choked the sand bed by not allowing water and bacteria to colonize in the sand bed and hence not giving the sand bed no functional use. Fine grade or special grade crushed coral or sugar fine special grade sand has been recommended. Now again for + years this has been debated I have run all grades and on the new set up I will be going back to the special grade reef seaflor
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jun 8, 2014 19:26:45 GMT -5
I think you should do a little more research about gfo before saying it only polishes off water.....though I do agree it won't magically make your phosphates disappear it will bring then down steadily and once you do get them down it wool continue to help you maintain ultra low phosphates. Witch in a reef tank is always the goal. Your always adding phosphates to your system and there will always be the need to remove them. A gfo phosphate reactor is the most efficient way to do this imho. It also helps with silicates and D.o.c. all things that feed algae.
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Post by n00b- Ryan [Poland] on Jun 8, 2014 19:31:44 GMT -5
I didn't test the rocks prior to adding them to my tank... Although my tank for the first 4 months consisted of nothing but sand and rock... Testing water params at least 3 times a weeks.. More offset then not.. Daily..
I'll yank a rock out and see what a soak test returns for a reading... And say I find a detectable amount... How would I resolve that?..
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