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Post by ryansweatt2004 on May 20, 2014 7:56:10 GMT -5
I think after reading everyone's concerns and thoughts, I do agree that cleaning the new one will be a big PITA, but I really like the added flow. I may still make a third closer to my second design but using u-tubes that are more cleanable/replaceable. My problem is coming up with a good way to make u-tubes 1" that can make a tight turn over the top of the tank that stay in the shape that I make them without pinching or crushing. But I think for now I'm gonna make an emergency PVC overflow that is separate from the overflow box. That would be useful in either case of overflow box. To bend a plastic or even metal tube without a die you just need to cap off one end, pack it tightly with sand and cap off the top. The sand will help the tube hold it's shape while being bent yet be flexible enough to allow the tube to bend. It needs to be packed tightly so that the sand has nowhere to go though. |
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 20, 2014 7:57:36 GMT -5
I think after reading everyone's concerns and thoughts, I do agree that cleaning the new one will be a big PITA, but I really like the added flow. I may still make a third closer to my second design but using u-tubes that are more cleanable/replaceable. My problem is coming up with a good way to make u-tubes 1" that can make a tight turn over the top of the tank that stay in the shape that I make them without pinching or crushing. But I think for now I'm gonna make an emergency PVC overflow that is separate from the overflow box. That would be useful in either case of overflow box. Why not just build the overflow and buy the u-tubes? They're very inexpensive |
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Post by Frank on May 20, 2014 7:58:31 GMT -5
It is GE acrylic silicone and works with both glass and acrylic. Nice thanks for the info I didn't know they made acrylic silicone. It's aquarium safe to? Everything I could find online says that it is. Someone's post even noted that they contacted manufacturer to ask. I haven't had any problems with it. Used it in my sump, and for both overflows that I have built.  |
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Post by Pokahpolice on May 20, 2014 7:59:28 GMT -5
For the snails would it work to add a new piece on the front and cut out teeth like a regular over flow that go all the way up almost to the top on the front? 1/4"slits should keep out any snails unless you have small snails? Keep fish out to. Should still allow the same flow as well. Teeth won't stop snails from climbing up and over. They get pretty much where ever they want to. I remember in my first tank I went with the "recommended" clean-up crew and had about ten million snails...I'd find them literally climbing the wall behind the tank...yes out of the water. |
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Post by Frank on May 20, 2014 8:01:55 GMT -5
Seems like it would be a lot easier and cheaper to just drill a hole. Is the back panel of the tank tempered glass? Why don't you want to drill the tank? To be honest I've never done it and I feel like would shatter it for sure. i don't know if the back is tempered or not, I bought the tank used many years ago. |
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Post by jasonandsarah on May 20, 2014 8:03:05 GMT -5
For the snails would it work to add a new piece on the front and cut out teeth like a regular over flow that go all the way up almost to the top on the front? 1/4"slits should keep out any snails unless you have small snails? Keep fish out to. Should still allow the same flow as well. Teeth won't stop snails from climbing up and over. They get pretty much where ever they want to. I remember in my first tank I went with the "recommended" clean-up crew and had about ten million snails...I'd find them literally climbing the wall behind the tank...yes out of the water. That's why I said to do it with another piece and being the teeth almost to the top but the acrylic all the way to the top closing the whole front whole off? If this makes sense? From the pictures it looks like it'd be really easily added on. |
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Post by Pokahpolice on May 20, 2014 8:04:08 GMT -5
It is reef safe ONLY if you let it cure 100%. Silicone can take up to 7 days to fully cure depending on how thick it's applied. Even small amounts should cure for 3-4 days before you put it in your tank. It releases gases as it cures and will leach into the water.
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Post by Pokahpolice on May 20, 2014 8:13:07 GMT -5
Seems like it would be a lot easier and cheaper to just drill a hole. Is the back panel of the tank tempered glass? Why don't you want to drill the tank? To be honest I've never done it and I feel like would shatter it for sure. i don't know if the back is tempered or not, I bought the tank used many years ago. I understand the feeling. I hadn't drilled a tank before recently either and was a bit tentative. I've now drilled 6 tanks. It's EXTREMELY easy and for a guy like you that is a DIY-er you shouldn't be nervous. Watch a youtube video. I go slow and have never felt like I was going to shatter the tank. I dealt with overflow boxes for a few years, flooded my floor a few times. Then I bought a drilled tank and I'll never go back to a box. The box you built is great but there is nothing better than setting it up correctly...not that a box is incorrect but it's a work around for drilling. |
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Post by Frank on May 20, 2014 8:14:29 GMT -5
It is reef safe ONLY if you let it cure 100%. Silicone can take up to 7 days to fully cure depending on how thick it's applied. Even small amounts should cure for 3-4 days before you put it in your tank. It releases gases as it cures and will leach into the water. Yes I did know this. Mine cured for probably two weeks before I finally got around to buying the correct router bit and buying the PVC bits I needed to plumb it up. |
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Post by gotareef on May 20, 2014 8:28:15 GMT -5
I think after reading everyone's concerns and thoughts, I do agree that cleaning the new one will be a big PITA, but I really like the added flow. I may still make a third closer to my second design but using u-tubes that are more cleanable/replaceable. My problem is coming up with a good way to make u-tubes 1" that can make a tight turn over the top of the tank that stay in the shape that I make them without pinching or crushing. But I think for now I'm gonna make an emergency PVC overflow that is separate from the overflow box. That would be useful in either case of overflow box. last time I bought one they were $6 www.marineland.com/Products/aquarium-parts/Filtration-Products-and-Skimmers/Sump-Filtration-Parts/Tidepool-Parts/Siphon-Tube-for-Tidepool-SOS.aspx |
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Post by speedyron on May 20, 2014 17:54:25 GMT -5
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Post by foggman on May 20, 2014 17:57:04 GMT -5
I had one one of thoes in my 46 it worked awsome never had a problem with it, I made an acrylic overflow box with mine to hide it. |
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Post by speedyron on May 20, 2014 18:29:07 GMT -5
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Post by speedyron on May 20, 2014 18:33:14 GMT -5
im gonna build one and get rid this ubox
im gonna make a tube out of latch hook mat to use as a snail guard over the intake to just a bit above the waterline
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Post by Frank on May 20, 2014 20:23:50 GMT -5
Well now that I'm paranoid that one or more of my overflow systems will fail I have installed a check valve into the top of the uchannel and also created a PVC backup overflow. Both systems seem to work fine independent of each other.
I may still decide to drill but I'm still on the fence because I would have to drill with the system up and running as I have no where else to house live stock for any extended period of time. Just my small 10 g QT.
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