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Post by Frank on Apr 15, 2014 21:05:19 GMT -5
My tank has been up and running since early Feb and now I seem to have the fun of red slime. I've fine a lot of reading and no one can seem to say whether this is part of the larger cycle or something to take care of immediately. Currently I've turned off all DT lights, taken out all pre filters and other mechanical filtration, and scrubbed off as much crap in alternate water from the live rock. Funny enough I don't seem to have any on my sabd which is where everyone contains about it.
Should I continue to be aggressive or let things take their course. Right now the only thing in the tank is CUC.
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Post by speedyron on Apr 16, 2014 3:38:49 GMT -5
check phos and calcium lvls. everything in your tank fights each other to stay on top. its a balance thing. it will come and go when things get outta whack. do tests and see where your at and what needs be changed
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Post by jasonandsarah on Apr 16, 2014 5:02:33 GMT -5
If it were me, I'd keep doing what your doing. Scrub those rocks in a separate container. Keep the lights off and test your nitrate and phosphate levels.
Maybe be time for a nice sized water change? Has the tank finished the cycle? Ammonia and nitrite gone?
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Post by Frank on Apr 16, 2014 5:17:33 GMT -5
Phosphate 0
Calcium 440
Temp 80
pH 8.2
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 10
Ammonia 0
KH 9
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Post by Frank on Apr 16, 2014 5:18:37 GMT -5
I've done two water changes already but only about 10%.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Apr 16, 2014 5:35:01 GMT -5
Everything looks good and it looks like your cycle is complete. I'd try to get those nitrates down now that your cycle is done.
I'd do a bigger water change. Where your tank is freshly cycled I'd do anywhere from a 30%-50% water change and get those nitrates down.
Idk what else could be fueling the cyano? You don't have any old light bulbs do you?
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Post by scoobnoob on Apr 16, 2014 5:49:22 GMT -5
It will pass just suck it out on water changes. What light are you using? Is it near a window? Reducing or eliminating the photo period will help too.
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Post by Pokahpolice on Apr 16, 2014 7:49:45 GMT -5
Cyano is not caused by Phosphates (so I've read and supported by the levels posted above). Cyano is a bacteria and not an algae so fighting it by reducing the light cycle will not typically help. Actually it may grow better in a low light situation. Many feel that Cyano is caused by DOC/DOM (dissolved organic carbon/matter). The DOC in your system is most likely caused from the dead algae and diatoms that you have been fighting.
Frequent water changes, heavy wet skimming, and most importantly high flow will eliminate your problem.
What do you have for powerheads? Low flow is a reef is a no-no and will cause a slew of issues.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Apr 16, 2014 8:00:22 GMT -5
Small part of a good read on cyano: It feeds on nitrogen and carbon, using the photosynthetic period to produce oxygen as it thickens visibly into a dark red mass throughout the lighting period daily. At night, it seemingly shrinks back to mere wisps of itself, but re-surfaces again the next day. Hobbyists tend to refer to this as “red slime algae,” although it has also been described as appearing blue, dark brown, or green. It commonly spreads across the substrate in the home aquarium like an ugly blanket that can smother corals unfortunate to be in its path. It may feel slippery to the touch, lifting as a thickened patch as bubbles form within it. It may form on the rockwork and on some corals as well, especially on deadened tips lacking tissue. Knowing that this bacteria is actually a normal part of natural filtration, one might think it isn’t of great concern. Be that as it may, people are quick to seek help in removing this eyesore from their beautiful tanks, and have used many methods. The purpose of this article is to provide some solutions. www.reefaddicts.com/content.php/42-Cyanobacteria-what-is-it-and-how-can-I-get-rid-of-it |
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Post by Frank on Apr 16, 2014 8:01:51 GMT -5
Lights were new in March, I can check the make when i get home. 2x t-5 actinic and 2x t-5 10k.
Right now I have two power heads going one aqua clear 70 - 400gph and Koralia 425 - 425gph.
There are Windows in the room but curtains cover them almost all the time.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Apr 16, 2014 8:08:31 GMT -5
Cyanobacteria are a photosynthetic nitrogen fixing group that survive in wide variety of habitat, soil and water. In this group photosynthetic pigments are cyanophycin, allo-phycocyanine and erythro-phycocyanine. Their thallu varies from unicellular to filamentous, filamentous heterocystous. they fix atmospheric nitrogen in aerobic condition by heterocyst, specialized cell, and in anaerobic condition. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanobacteria |
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Post by Pokahpolice on Apr 16, 2014 8:40:22 GMT -5
Just because something is photosynthetic doesn't mean that it strives in high light environments. Unless you plan on eliminating light all together than reducing the light doesn't solve the problem. Some things actually prefer low light...ie molds and bacteria. I'm pretty sure you want to be able to run your light..correct? The problem is the organic carbon that the cyano is feeding on. Reduce the organic carbon and you'll fix the problem rather than treat the symptom.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Apr 16, 2014 9:09:42 GMT -5
cyano doesn't strive in low light. Shutting your lights off for 3 or 4 days can HELP with the problem short term and he has nothing in his tank at all so I don't think shutting lights off is that big a deal? Either way like i posted cyano feeds on lighting (red spectrum mostly)carbon (organics) and nitrogen (no3 in your case) I've read many different articles on cyanobacteria and i've never seen proof that cyano feeds mainly on organics alone so I wouldn't bet on it. If it were me i'd be attacking it from all 3 angles and not just one.
Bruce I'd appreciate it if you'd post the article in witch you read that cyano feeds mainly on organics alone and strives in low light conditions? I'd be very interested to read it. I apologize if I can't throw away everything i've ever read because you say you read an article that contradicts every article i've ever read?
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Post by Cowdogz on Apr 16, 2014 9:14:03 GMT -5
If you have nuisance algaes, etc., then you have excess nutrients (nitrate, phosphate, etc.). Doesn't matter what your tests say; in this case trust your eyes. Sometimes the nuisances can use up nutrients faster than you can test for them, hence the negative tests. When the nuisances start to dissipate, then you know you've addressed the nutrient issue.
If you let the nuisances get out of hand, then they can become a self-sustaining problem, meaning that once the nutrients have been used up, the nuisances start to die off, but then release nutrients back into the water to feed the algaes, etc. that are left.
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Post by Pokahpolice on Apr 16, 2014 9:41:19 GMT -5
cyano doesn't strive in low light. Shutting your lights off for 3 or 4 days can HELP with the problem short term and he has nothing in his tank at all so I don't think shutting lights off is that big a deal? Either way like i posted cyano feeds on lighting (red spectrum mostly)carbon (organics) and nitrogen (no3 in your case) I've read many different articles on cyanobacteria and i've never seen proof that cyano feeds mainly on organics alone so I wouldn't bet on it. If it were me i'd be attacking it from all 3 angles and not just one. Bruce I'd appreciate it if you'd post the article in witch you read that cyano feeds mainly on organics alone and strives in low light conditions? I'd be very interested to read it. I apologize if I can't throw away everything i've ever read because you say you read an article that contradicts every article i've ever read? Here you go netclub.athiel.com/cyano/cyanos2.htm If you don't trust Thiel than I certainly can't help you, friend. |
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