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Post by speedyron on Dec 15, 2013 8:09:44 GMT -5
  what im saying to you is simply get plastic 1/4" to 1/2" reducer fittings for fifty cents at hardware store and your done. Drilling them out to a bigger size will not give you any advantage. It will not increase the flow, isn't as easy as you might think [plastic and aluminum can be difficult to tap without damaging threads], take a chance in ruining filter housing [Drill bit really like to grab plastic and break it]. Besides you don't need a lot of flow in a reactor [just get the media in a tumbling action is best]. Make sure you add a loop from your in and out to recirculate media and two valves one to control tumbling and one to limit output. this picture shows a different housing configuration then you propose but still operates the same. These units sell for 200 bucks but you can make them for under 100 |
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Post by jasonandsarah on Dec 15, 2013 9:40:19 GMT -5
Wouldn't a reducer being the size of the hole down? You would this a reducer would be to bring a 1/2"hole down to a 1/4" hole?? I've never seen any that being it from 1/4" to 1/2"? I believe the Ro canisters come with 1/8" holes? Witch I believe would be to small for bio pellets? If it was carbon or gfo I'd leave it the same because it'd be plenty of flow. But for a bio pellet reactor you need more flow then carbon or gfo?? I'm gonna try it as soon as I get the pump if it works great if not then I'm gonna attempt to enlarge it.
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Post by speedyron on Dec 16, 2013 20:03:51 GMT -5
check this out
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Post by speedyron on Dec 16, 2013 20:21:03 GMT -5
watch the whole thing they have an ad in the middle of it. they are using a 1/4" feeding and exiting unit. they even limit water leaving unit with a valve. Now in the circulation circuit the diameter of tubing is biger but i think that was matched to the pump for ease not necessity. I believe that amount of tumbling action could be achieved with a 1/4" circuit too.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Dec 17, 2013 5:45:38 GMT -5
That's a really good set up but I don't know if I can achieve that with the parts I'm using? I have a Ro canister instead of a clear cylinder like they have. Either way it's a great video and concept that I'll definitely use allot of information from in my build
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Post by jasonandsarah on Feb 4, 2014 12:41:44 GMT -5
Not to beat a dead horse but............. I'd really like to get everyone's opinions on nitrate control??? Like to hear what others do besides water changes and bio pellets?
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Post by gotareef on Feb 4, 2014 12:45:39 GMT -5
nitrate I use clams  with enough clams there would be no need for a deep sand bed |
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Post by jasonandsarah on Feb 4, 2014 12:48:58 GMT -5
How do your clams help with nitrate? Lol I almost bought a dersa clam the other day just to try and save it.they had it at topsham pet co and it was sideways getting no lights terrible!
They had a brain there to for 40$ and it was big(softball sized) but it wasn't doing great kinda turning brown lack of light I think?
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Post by Matt in Lewiston on Feb 4, 2014 13:08:36 GMT -5
nitrate I use clams with enough clams there would be no need for a deep sand bed Any clams, or "cleaner clams"? If you mean cleaner clams, is it true that you can buy some cherry stone clams from a good seafood place? |
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Post by jasonandsarah on Feb 4, 2014 13:18:06 GMT -5
I've seen people with Maine ocean clams/mussels in there sump. Either way I'm not really big on clams right now if I was to get another one it would be just that ONE....
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Post by jasonandsarah on Feb 27, 2014 9:08:24 GMT -5
So I've had a little bit of a slime algae recently. (Not cyano) and I tried everything to get rid of it with no results. Till the other day when I shut off my phosphate reactor to change it out, got lazy and left it off for the past 2 days
Now things are starting to look better??
I'm starting to wonder if maybe my phosphates were to low? I know I've read that some types of dinoflangelites only grow when there's very low nutrients and raising your phosphates and nitrates a little can make it go away?? I know it should be the opposite but in this case it doesn't seem to be the case?
My real question is how do I know when to turn it back on because I don't want it to get to high! Then I'll get another t type of algae growing?? Has anyone ever had a similar situation?
My phosphate text kit ran out and new one hasn't come in yet?? So testing phosphates right now isn't going to happen?
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Post by gotareef on Feb 27, 2014 9:15:00 GMT -5
with a reactor you are putting food in the system just like adding vodka or sugar
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Post by jasonandsarah on Feb 27, 2014 9:22:12 GMT -5
Why would I be purifying food back into the system with a gfo rector? It's not bio pellets sorry I should have said that. But either way idk why it'd add food/nutrients to the tank? Isn't the whole point of a reactor to remove these things?
Maybe I should start my reactor back up at a 1/4 recommended dose? To try and maintain low phosphates but not no phosphates?
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Post by speedyron on Mar 1, 2014 17:50:28 GMT -5
that is the reason u should use a recirculating reactor and pipe it strait to your protein skimmer so the residual nutrients from the reactor are taken out by the skimmer. just need a tee on the skimmer in put. one side sucks from sump. other side from reactor.
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Post by speedyron on Mar 1, 2014 18:04:43 GMT -5
recirculation does two things. gives more time to react with the same water and allows for more suspension of reactor media. suspension of media means no stagnate areas in reactor which causes media to rot and really stink.
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what im saying to you is simply get plastic 1/4" to 1/2" reducer fittings for fifty cents at hardware store and your done. Drilling them out to a bigger size will not give you any advantage. It will not increase the flow, isn't as easy as you might think [plastic and aluminum can be difficult to tap without damaging threads], take a chance in ruining filter housing [Drill bit really like to grab plastic and break it]. Besides you don't need a lot of flow in a reactor [just get the media in a tumbling action is best]. Make sure you add a loop from your in and out to recirculate media and two valves one to control tumbling and one to limit output. this picture shows a different housing configuration then you propose but still operates the same. These units sell for 200 bucks but you can make them for under 100
with enough clams there would be no need for a deep sand bed