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Post by Cowdogz on Jul 26, 2013 17:47:27 GMT -5
it's definitely a beast to get rid of. I feed reefchili and I swear if I over feed at all I start a bloom. Jason at Easy claims that Bryopsis actually grows best in nutrient poorenvironments.
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Post by seamonkey84 on Jul 27, 2013 20:53:11 GMT -5
^ yep, it grows great in prime reef conditions! Peroxide dip your rocks (50/50 mix with tank water) for about 8 mins, pull off as much of it as you can first though. Then I'd really recomend using kent Tech M magnesium (its the other surf in it that does the work, not the Mg itself so it needs to be Kent's) to slowly raise your mg to 1800-1900 and keep it at that for at least 4 weeks to really knock out the bryopsis.
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Post by lindsey1984 on Jul 28, 2013 7:32:46 GMT -5
That's probably what we'll end up doing in jess's 40 b after she moves her coral to her 30 nano. :-) I def don't want this crap in my tank, so I'm guessing it'll be a month or so before I upgrade. I don't have enough rock without the giant rock I planned to add with the bryopsis
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using proboards
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Post by dharmajedi on Jul 28, 2013 7:48:26 GMT -5
it's definitely a beast to get rid of. I feed reefchili and I swear if I over feed at all I start a bloom. Jason at Easy claims that Bryopsis actually grows best in nutrient poorenvironments. E it's definitely an opportunist And would probably grow in the bathtub if it had a shot
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Post by justkeepfragging on Aug 30, 2013 15:48:59 GMT -5
i just got two frags from easy and they have bryopsis growing in them...what should I do ?
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Post by gotareef on Aug 30, 2013 16:29:16 GMT -5
chip it off the rock or re mount the frags
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Post by Easy Aquariums on Aug 30, 2013 19:20:46 GMT -5
We've actually had luck at the store with starved emerald crabs. We section them off then put corals and rocks in with them and they clean it right off. Kent tech M also works from first hand experience.
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Post by Hack157 on Aug 30, 2013 19:29:45 GMT -5
As was mentioned in an earlier post, Kent Tech M is the stuff that people are having success in riding their tanks of Bryopsis. Although it is a magnesium solution, most believe it is actually one of the other unknown elements or some suggest an impurity in Kent Tech M that takes care of Bryopsis and not just the magnesium. You will find by reading that others have raised their magnesium levels using other products and not had any success. I had a friend successfully treat his tank with it, and now a year plus later it has not returned. Prior to using the Kent Tech M he tried everything that has been listed in this thread and then some. Just make sure you have a good magnesium test kit, Google and do some reading. Basically you slowly raise the magnesium levels, maintain them for some period of time, and then let them drop back down. Good luck with it.
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Post by oceangirl2009 on Aug 31, 2013 9:19:07 GMT -5
I have a couple of rocks where I'm battling this stuff. A couple of months ago I pulled the rocks out and soaked in H2O2 for 24 hours then scrubbed the rocks. Everything seemed fine for a couple of weeks and then came back. So I pulled the rocks out again did another H2O2 soak, and now I have them soaking in a light sealed bucket, I may add the Kent Tech M to that...
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Post by oceangirl2009 on Aug 31, 2013 9:20:36 GMT -5
When I finally get the money to do my upgrade (maybe Christmas present!), I'm going to start with marco rocks and maybe a few of my unaffected rocks.
As for frags, I would do what gotareef suggested, chip them off and remount, you don't want this stuff in your tank.
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Post by gotareef on Aug 31, 2013 10:03:07 GMT -5
I have never had luck getting rid of it. its been in my tanks for years.... sometimes I can get it almost gone and then it will just come back. but I dont have the "cleanest" tank. now I am fighting bubble algae(worse than bryopsis) it started from a frag plug, and now all threw the tank. no more frag plugs for me unless they are the acrylic ones
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Post by Lance on Aug 31, 2013 10:31:27 GMT -5
I had a horrible outbreak of this about 2 yrs ago. It bloomed out of some cheap, second-hand live rock I bought. My opinion is that the rock had sequestered a lot of phosphate in the previous owner's tank...calcium carbonate binds phosphates then gives them up like a time release fertilizer. I've since gotten rid of most of that live rock.
However, I still have a few colonies of zoas that are attached to that rock. If I let my GFO get old or if flow through the GFO drops, the Bryopsis comes raging back but only on those little pieces.
If large amounts of phosphate have been sequestered like this, I don't know if there is any treatment for the rock other than time...
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Post by jess on Aug 31, 2013 14:04:45 GMT -5
The peroxide does work, but a little is starting to grow back in spots. I cannot get rid of any algae in my tank right now and it's driving me crazy. Hair, little bit of bryopsis, and red/brown slime. It's so frustrating
Sent from my SCH-I535 using proboards
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Post by Hack157 on Sept 1, 2013 20:53:32 GMT -5
Most algae outbreaks are your tanks way of balancing. It is for the most part telling you that something is out of whack. Start with the basics. First what type of water are you using? If you are not using RODI then that would be my first suggestion. Next, test for alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. Get those three stabilized and don't worry about anything else. Rinse all your frozen food in RODI water, most is Phosphate heavy. Take a turkey baster to your rock work once per week. If you are unsure about your skimmer, toss in a filter sock on your overflow. Those things can be made using craft felt from Walmart for about 0.50 a piece.
What most don't seem to realize is that the ocean has its own ups and downs. There are algae blooms here in Maine and around the globe. The key is to find the food source, eliminate it and let it starve. Now some like Bryopsis is a bit more difficult, but there are two things to keep in mind. Hair algae can be mistaken for Bryoposis, and either can be beaten.
I say this all the time, but just don't panic. This doesn't require conventional weapons that can cost millions of dollars and an untold number of lives. Patience can be a virtue, and many things will pass on their own, if you just make slight changes to your tank husbandry. Just don't expect that it will correct itself overnight. But you will see positive changes that will eventually lead to the tank you covet. How long might it take, well for me close to three months. The before and after pictures of my tank I posted on an earlier thread is proof of what I speak, at least in my case.
Of course this is all just my opinion, and I could be wrong.
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Post by Lance on Sept 1, 2013 21:13:51 GMT -5
What would we have if we couldn't argue over algae outbreaks? Most of what you say is true except... ... There are algae blooms here in Maine and around the globe. ... Reefs are not located in environments like Maine where there are (normal) radical changes in conditions so this is not a fair - or desirable - comparison. Conditions on a healthy reef are basically static compared to temperate climates. By basically static, I mean nutrient levels, temperature, and energy inputs. Even slight changes to any of those parameters on a given patch of reef can tip the balance in favor of some other set of critters. A slight elevation in silting or nutrients can wipe it out. I have to differ with the folks saying Bryopsis grows in prime reef conditions. Some nutrient is present - that shouldn't be - and that is fueling the growth. In my opinion Phosphate is likely culprit (see my previous post) and it is a bear to test for accurately given how calcium carbonate acts to sequester it and algae, when growing rapidly is taking it up. It is also a problem in such minute amounts. There are a lot of strategies to deal with this: Kalkwasser to precipitate, GFO and water changes to remove, and preventative efforts to avoid adding additional Phosphate. I wholeheartedly agree with others when they say you have to be patient and keep doing the right things.
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