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Post by scoobnoob on May 6, 2013 20:08:37 GMT -5
I bought 2 Brooklyn 40B Metal stands from petco on closeout for $29.98 each, I figured it would save me a lot of time and effort, however here is a slight problem. Each stand has a gap between the tank and stand at the cross member in the front and rear, and a little on the sides as pictured. The gap as as big as 1/8" on one stand which I returned but now have the same problem with the new stand. Should I cover the stand with a peice of cabinet liner to fill the gap and self level or would this still put more stress on the sides as opposed to the front? I could also cut a sheet of wood to put on top of the stand, then put the tank on that so there would be no gaps. I just don't want to get this all setup and the tanks t blow out due to something stupid like this gap. Following pictures of of the gap I put a flashlight behide the stand to illuminate it. Thank you all for any help you can give.   |
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Post by scoobnoob on May 6, 2013 20:09:03 GMT -5
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Post by foggman on May 6, 2013 20:27:04 GMT -5
I would say put a 4ft level on it to make sure you are level in all areas then put it across the support giving you issues and see if there is an issue with the stand not the tank, if the gap is still there get some wood shims and with the tank on shim any gaps all the way across,
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Post by jess on May 6, 2013 20:52:08 GMT -5
If the gap is between the tank bottom and the stand I would be afraid to mess with shims. Forever ago I learned the hard way (cracked the bottom glass in a 55, twice) that it's best to leave minor gaps like that alone. When the tank is filled there is flex, if there's uneven pressure created it will cause pressure breaks.
If you did anything I would go with a piece that will fit entirely over the stand so that weight is still equally distributed, but I think that you will be fine just the way it is. If im understanding the gap situation correctly anyway.
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Post by ryansweatt2004 on May 6, 2013 21:28:26 GMT -5
I would use a small bottle jack with a block to press out the sag in the rails and check it every little bit with a straight edge or long level. You may have to over bend it slightly to compensate for the metal wanting to naturally spring back to its former shape.
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Post by scoobnoob on May 6, 2013 21:58:17 GMT -5
The gap is the length of the stand front and rear all the weight would be supported on the left and right sides
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Post by jess on May 6, 2013 22:30:56 GMT -5
The length of your tank will fill that gap tho once filled with water. The tank bows slightly from the pressure of the water.
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Post by gotareef on May 6, 2013 22:40:33 GMT -5
the tank is supported by the corners so it shouldn't matter but every tank should have a piece of rigid styrofoam under it because the plastic trim on 99% of tanks have the same problem maybe not so bad but still not perfect
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Post by scoobnoob on May 7, 2013 7:14:55 GMT -5
Would it do any harm to put a layer of wood between the stand and tank that's cut to fit? There are also round rubber pieces smaller than a dime that came with it to place under each corner but that would raise the entire tank significantly and only offer support on the very corner like a 1/4" gap if I use those.
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Post by gotareef on May 7, 2013 8:45:47 GMT -5
I would use styrofoam! the weight of the tank will make it sit even on the stand
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NateG
Full Member
Posts: 222
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Post by NateG on May 7, 2013 10:04:15 GMT -5
I would use styrofoam! the weight of the tank will make it sit even on the stand +1. It will unsightly unless you face the entire stand. But it will work very effectively while being cheap and easy to implement. I would try and get the bend out first. But whenever possibly you should have soundboard under the tank. I don't agree with tanks bearing the load at the corners. Maybe you meant the edges? The pink foamboard at HD and the blue foamboard at Lowes are both surprisingly firm. To the point where that 1/8" gap may not be entirely closed up. So like others have said, try and bend it as strait as you can before the soundboard |
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Post by scoobnoob on May 7, 2013 18:10:38 GMT -5
It's not a matter of the cross frame being warped, the screws that support it go sideways into it and maybe the holes are off by just enough for this to be noticeable.
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Post by jess on May 7, 2013 18:26:48 GMT -5
From what I have read, all metal stands are like this. It is the metal itself in that it is never completely straight. Even people that take all the time in the world trying to make it straight still say theirs is off. I would definitely not shim only certain spots. Id go with a full piece over the whole thing or like others said with the Styrofoam. I personally would use the stand as it is  but that's cause I learned the hard way from messing with them lol. 30+ glns of water on your carpeted floor, twice, taught me that lesson lol. Sent from my SCH-I535 using ProBoards |
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Post by scoobnoob on May 7, 2013 19:33:25 GMT -5
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Post by scoobnoob on May 7, 2013 23:01:39 GMT -5
What about using cork? Do I put the tank directly on the foam or put a layer of wood inbetween? What about floor boarding? Do you cut out the center so only the frame rests on the foam?
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but that's cause I learned the hard way from messing with them lol. 30+ glns of water on your carpeted floor, twice, taught me that lesson lol.