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Post by Cowdogz on Mar 6, 2013 10:29:06 GMT -5
What are the inside dimensions of that stand?
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NateG
Full Member
Posts: 222
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Post by NateG on Mar 6, 2013 10:57:40 GMT -5
I totally agree with much of what has been said about your sand bed. Literally last week at work we had to convert a clients sand bed. The best way to do it is also a huge PITA. We bring a rubbermade 55 gallon barrel. Fill it with as much aquarium water as you can, THEN add liverock and livestock. Add small powerhead next to heater as well as an airstone away from the powerhead.
Then you could leave the barrel the way it is for some time. Take your time using whatever method works for you. I would not go at your tank with the assumption that the new sand will settle to the bottom. Your sand looks a lot like caribsea seafloor special grade. You want some kind of oolitic aragonite or sugar grain sized aragonite.
I would remove all of the sand and replace with 1.5-2" of dry oolitic. Its less than $1/lb. Seed it with sand from a fellow members astablished tank. Allow the dust to settle in your 55 aquarium after it has been completely filled with salt water. Then do a massive water change introducing your old tank water back into your aquarium with the livestock as well. This will be some work but will work. And will give you far fewer headaches in the future.
Also, how often are you not just emptying but cleaning your skimmer head?
And try not to get overwhelmed with this task. Once its done, its done forever right? haha
Oh! And when you put your liverock back in, push it down to the glass. The rock will essentially draw more water through your sand bed/biofilter this way in addition to be being more stable.
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Post by lindsey1984 on Mar 6, 2013 15:34:01 GMT -5
That sounds like a good idea, time consuming yes, but if it fixes the problem, then Its worth it in the long run. I was also thinking, I plan to make a cabinet for all my supplies to the left of my aquarium. I was going to buy one, but so far I havent found what I wanted and I thought I may just have the hubby build it for me. If I can have him make me a cabinet, would there be a way to put a refugium in it or do a RDSB in it? If im understanding the RDSB its having the deep sand bed but not in your main tank right? As far as the dimensions under the stand, Im not sure. I do know that a 20 tall is too big to fit under there. We were originally gonna do a 20 gal sump under it but the tank size was a problem. If i were to guess, Id say its prob a little less than a foot wide on the inside, the length is about 4 ft (same as the tank) and the height is prob 2 1/2 to 3 ft. this is the area I could use on the left side of my tank (I just want the equip hid) and im thinking if we build a cabinet, we could hide a tank in there. I think its prob about 2 1/2-maybe 3 ft wide and I could make it as tall as the ceiling if needed.
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NateG
Full Member
Posts: 222
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Post by NateG on Mar 6, 2013 23:11:23 GMT -5
There are a few columns in the craigslist adds. A small column type aquarium would make a really nice fuge on the left there. You could put it low and box it in. Or put it on the stand you are likely to get with it and then put your gear underneath. Both would work. Seeing as how you will want to run the light at night time with a reverse night day cycle or 24hr cycle, you may want to keep the light in a cabinet if it will be an issue at night. A good 3 inch oolitic sand bed, topped with 1/4" or less of the special grade sand u have already, and then a sprinkle of large crushed coral, and you will have niice microfauna factory down there You can have the fuge drilled real cheap now too. Or diy! Is that by chance a power strip or two lying on the floor behind the tank?
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Post by lindsey1984 on Mar 7, 2013 6:57:16 GMT -5
Those aren't power strips they're ballasts for my lights. The power strip is under the cabinet mounted to the top on the inside
Sent from my Desire HD using proboards
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Post by Cowdogz on Mar 7, 2013 7:57:42 GMT -5
I don't know what all that tank is on the right. If you are handy, that stand could be modified to accommodate a 15 or a 20-long pretty easily, maybe even without moving the tank. If you are really handy, you could build a sump/refugium to your own specs with glass, or acrylic, or even plywood.
What Sokretys suggests would put more water in your system, which is never a bad thing.
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Post by lindsey1984 on Mar 7, 2013 7:59:20 GMT -5
BTW thank you to EVERYONE for your help!!! I'm gonna talk to the hubby and see what option he would most like to participate in LOL Thank you all again SO much!
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Post by Marlin & Coral on Mar 7, 2013 13:15:46 GMT -5
Here are links to Purigen and Chemi Pure Elite that we mentioned earlier on. We use these in our filters along with some live rock rubble. We only replace the filter materials (Chemi Pure Elite and Purigen) every 4 - 6 months. Our 38 gallon has been set up for a couple of years and the 45 gallon for almost a year and we've never had a problem with nitrates....they test 0 (undetectable) in both tanks. Also, wanted to mention that we don't have skimmers, sumps, or refugiums either. (Although, I'd love to increase our water volume and eventually have a sump/fuge. with some macro algae.) We use our well water for top off and water changes and Instant Ocean salt. I do weekly 25% water changes and feed our tanks (1/4 - 1/2 cube of frozen foods or a pinch of flakes or pellets) every day. We do have 4" - 5" deep fine sand for our sandbeds, so I know this also is beneficial for anerobic bacteria. that break down nitrates. Any way, here are the links if you are still interested in them. www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Purigen.htmlboyd--enterprises.com/chemipure-elite/I hope this info is helpful and that you'll be able to see 0 nitrate readings on your test results soon as well. Happy fish keeping! <)))))<
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