syn74
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Post by syn74 on Aug 15, 2012 14:51:12 GMT -5
Hello all. I just wanted to get some advice from my fellow reef keepers. I have a little bit of a hair algae problem. For a while I was just way to busy with the kids and work and kind of slacked off on my regular maintenance, like using tap water for top offs and not doing my water changes as much as I should have. I have since gotten back into the swing of things since the kids have gotten older and I am using my RO/DI, doing my water changes as I should and just taking care of everything as I should be. I still have some of the algae left tho. I just recently started using Marineland Black Diamond Activated Carbon because I was reading some good things about it. Seems to be going well so far. I have also read about Chemi-pure and was wondering what everyone's options were and what you all use, if anything. Also, I have kind of been wondering about LED's. It seems like something that I might want to move to in the future. Has anyone heard anything about the Marineland Reef LED Light Fixtures? I have searched some and don't really have a good grasp on them. For example, why are these ones only a few hundred dollars compared to others that are $2000+.
Thank you for any help, Marc
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syn74
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Posts: 72
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Post by syn74 on Aug 15, 2012 15:24:08 GMT -5
Also, just an FYI in case you want to know. It is a 75 gallon reef tank with a 30 gallon refugium, skimmer(not sure what kind) I would guess 125lbs live rock or so, metal halide lights, chiller, and a 3 power heads.
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Post by Lance on Aug 15, 2012 16:59:14 GMT -5
Rule #1 always use RO/DI Rule #2 always use RO/DI Rule #3 always use RO/DI  So, now that you've broken the rules, what can you do? I had the exact same problem - my RO/DI unit was down for a few weeks and I used tap water. Here's what I did and continue to do. The name of the game is 'Limit Nutrient Availability': 1. Add a GFO (Granulated Ferric Oxide) reactor - the main culprit in green hair algae outbreaks, and especially Bryopsis, is addition of tap water containing phosphates. Phosphates even in MICROSCOPIC doses can fuel these blooms. Further phosphates bind to calcium carbonate in the aquarium (coral skeleton, live rock, and live sand). The lovely part is that as you remove phosphate, say through water changes, the phos leaches back into solution like a time-release fertilizer. That means you have to take it out continuously, maybe for years. 2. Run high quality activated carbon - does not remove phos but will remove other nutrients. 3. Run a high quality protein skimmer and maintain it 4. Do regular, small water changes - 10-20% a week 5. Do NOT overfeed your fish and do not overstock 6. Make sure you have no dead zones - good water movement is key to flushing the phos out. I've seen mini-hair algae outbreaks in dead zones. 7. Appropriate algae eaters and scavengers to keep the algae trimmed and missed fish food cleaned up. BTW - almost nothing will reliably eat Bryopsis if that is what you have. The only thing that I am aware of that are obligate Bryposis feeders are Lettuce Slugs. 8. Do not use tap water As a I said above, once phos in the system it may take years to remove due to binding and leaching. I still have specific rocks that will 'bloom' if I let the GFO get old or skip water changes. Re: ChemiPure - I think if you use it you will see immediate results, then within a week or two, back to normal. ChemiPure is mixture of activated carbon and ion exchange resins. The IE resins are great at scavenging a lot of contaminants but are quickly exhausted. For the money I'd stick with straight activated carbon and GFO. BTW - I have a used Two Little Fishies Phosban reactor if you're interested. (http://www.marinedepot.com/filters_two_little_fishies_phosban_reactor-ap.html). In good shape - $20 |
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syn74
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Posts: 72
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Post by syn74 on Aug 15, 2012 17:36:16 GMT -5
Thank you for all the great info. I knew that tap water was a very bad idea, I was just to busy to care at the time. I didn't know that it was quite that bad tho. Oh well, live and learn. I would definitly be interested in the phosban reactor, I would just need you to let me know how to use it. |
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Post by Lance on Aug 15, 2012 17:53:12 GMT -5
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syn74
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Posts: 72
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Post by syn74 on Aug 15, 2012 18:38:58 GMT -5
Any recomendations for skimmers for a 75? Here is a pic of the one I have now. No clue what model it is, it came with the tank and doesn't have any markings on it.  |
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Post by ryansweatt2004 on Aug 15, 2012 18:44:36 GMT -5
If you can afford to get one, A super reef octopus skimmer would be one of your better bets. They absolutely rock. Stay away from Eshopps protein skimmers, they have constant pump issues with crap warranties.
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syn74
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Posts: 72
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Post by syn74 on Aug 15, 2012 19:03:00 GMT -5
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Post by ryansweatt2004 on Aug 15, 2012 19:28:06 GMT -5
I've been around these skimmers quite a bit from my time helping out at aquacorals and owning my own SRO int 3000 skimmer. I actually recommended them to aquacorals to try and then sell after I had the owner special order mine for me. I'll be getting that same skimmer from Aquacave.com for my wife's tank at some point. You can't go wrong with them. just make sure to have it in the proper water depth and give it a really good white vinegar bath to clean it before you put it in your sump. It will drastically help reduce the skimmer break in period. Mine didn't have to break in at all after I cleaned it.
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Post by scoobnoob on Aug 15, 2012 19:45:15 GMT -5
Chemi-pure is decent I use it, I use the Elite for the GFO, If you never used it before I'd reccommend getting 2 units. My hair algea was on it's way out but then I needed to replace it and didn't have another bag...so while I waited for my new chemipure it came back... Follow all the previous rules mentioned above. I have just 2 rocks with it..I move em I do everying all the other rocks in my tank are clean but I can't get rid of it. The Marineland LED's IMO are not very good you get what you pay for a local shop in bangor sells them and they have a display the light is spotty and drab, the tank it's on has never looked all that great it could probably sustain some zoa's but I wouldn't expect much from it. Your skimmer is a Coralife super skimmer and should be rated for 75 gallons. I have the same one on my 30xh...it's a PITA and I would also recommend a reef octopus. Mine had the air intake peice break off, I needed to glue it back in it really doesn't produce much skimmate...should adjust the water level according to the directions...intake hose gets clogged etc. I don't particularly care for it.
Hope we've helped.
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syn74
New Member
Posts: 72
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Post by syn74 on Aug 15, 2012 22:09:50 GMT -5
You have all helped alot. Thank you
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syn74
New Member
Posts: 72
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Post by syn74 on Aug 16, 2012 9:40:27 GMT -5
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Post by Lance on Aug 16, 2012 10:02:28 GMT -5
Both are 'in-sump' skimmers. One has the pump inside the skimmer base, one has the pump outside. I've never owned either and these comments are based purely on the images and specs on those pages:
General Comments
- they both seem to be the same height so clearance is no difference (if in a stand or under a table)
- they both use the same pump
Super Reef XP-1000sss Space Saver
- will utilize less space in your sump
- gives up column height in the skimmer chamber due to pump
- Looks to me like it will be harder to service the pump...have to remove from base (may or may not be an issue
Super Reef 1000
- will utilize MORE space in your sump
- has more column height in the skimmer chamber...this is GOOD...bubbles stay in contact with water longer
- pump is easier to service
Unless space in your sump is at a premium, I'd buy the cheaper (Super Reef 1000).
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syn74
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Posts: 72
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Post by syn74 on Aug 16, 2012 10:29:52 GMT -5
Thats the issue I seem to have I think. If you look at the pic above of where my current skimmer is. You will see a wall on the far left side of it. I just don't know if I have room for either one. I am going to have to measure when I get home. I hope I can find a way to squeeze one of them in there.
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Post by Lance on Aug 16, 2012 11:15:02 GMT -5
Looks like you have room for a bigger sump... |
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