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Post by fermentedhiker on Nov 26, 2015 10:11:43 GMT -5
My 125 FW project is starting to creep forward and my next step in prepping for it is building the sump. I'll be using a standard 29 from petco(already have) and an old 10 as and ATO reservoir. I'm using a deepwater aquatics BLDC5 for a return pump. A used Eshopps overflow.
So I'm looking for a few suggestions from you experienced sump builders. I'm not worried about microbubbles so baffles will be limited to what's necessary to set water levels etc...
First section will be highest and set a permanent water level primarily for the heaters. I'm not a fan of filter socks(need to be changed too often) I was also thinking of placing a small bucket of aragonite sand as a removable DSB(benefits are questionable but I don't see any detrimental effects) and possibly a place to put some clams to help filter the water. I have to figure out how big to make this section and exactly how high. I was thinking 9" long(to accommodate a 5 quart painters mixing bucket) and 15" high(heaters are around 12" but I thought a little extra was good as insurance for a longer replacement heater if I end up with something different in the future).
Second section(fuge) and third(return pump) are a little more of a question. I was thinking of not separating them with a solid baffle(allows more volume in the chamber which will see the evaporation(although with an ATO this may not be important). Thinking of making an eggcrate platform in the fuge section and placing the reef rubble on top(will allow me to siphon detritus from underneath without tearing everything apart. Then I'll put some subwassertang on top for nutrient export and selling to the lfs and adding some scuds/mts and whatever else for microfauna.
How to separate the second and third section to reduce the chance of something clogging the intake of the return pump is something I haven't worked out yet. Originally I was going to use eggcrate for the baffle as this would stop the subwassertang from being sucked into the pump as long as I kept it trimmed.
Thoughts/suggestions welcome.
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Post by spotfin on Nov 26, 2015 17:19:20 GMT -5
I'll get some pics of my sump and post.
A couple of thoughts. What is the approximate flow rate? A 29 is a bit small for your system volume. Do you have room for something bigger? A 40 breeder is a good size (what I use). Any plans for pre-filter? I would skip the aragonite sand bed and clams.
I'll describe mine when I put the pictures up.
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Post by fermentedhiker on Nov 27, 2015 0:58:10 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply. No plans for a prefilter at this point. A 40B won't fit unfortunately otherwise I would definitely use one. I was originally going to reuse a 55 but it doesn't leave enough headroom about the 55 to actually work on/in the sump. I guess I could get a glass shop to cut it down maybe, but I'm not sure about that. The BLDC5 is rated for 1400gph at 13ft of head, but I'll have it dialed down from there. Not sure exactly what I'll settle on at this point. It doesn't need to be super fast, just enough contact time vs turnover with the heaters for them to work effectively. I'm guessing it'll be more like 500-600 GPH.
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Post by Kevin on Nov 27, 2015 7:21:17 GMT -5
A 40 long or a 33 would be great options for sumps as well. I had this problem when I built a stand for my old 135. The 55 was to tall to give any working room between the rim and the stand. I picked up a 40 long at Pet Pro. Was like 110$? Anyways if your interested I have an extra used 40 long in my basement $50 would buy it.
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Post by fermentedhiker on Nov 27, 2015 8:48:34 GMT -5
A 40 long or a 33 would be great options for sumps as well. I had this problem when I built a stand for my old 135. The 55 was to tall to give any working room between the rim and the stand. I picked up a 40 long at Pet Pro. Was like 110$? Anyways if your interested I have an extra used 40 long in my basement $50 would buy it. That would be awesome. PM me about your schedule. |
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Post by fermentedhiker on Nov 27, 2015 16:57:54 GMT -5
So now thanks to Kevin I have a 40L to use for a sump. So I need to redo my design.
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Post by fermentedhiker on Nov 27, 2015 20:31:12 GMT -5
Where do you guys get glass for your sump baffles? I'd like to use smoked glass if I can to reduce light pollution and algae growth in the non refugium chambers.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Nov 28, 2015 8:25:17 GMT -5
Where do you guys get glass for your sump baffles? I'd like to use smoked glass if I can to reduce light pollution and algae growth in the non refugium chambers. I use a glass shop in Wiscasset but I'm sure you can use any glass shop. Normally around $30 for glass and cuts. |
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Post by spotfin on Nov 30, 2015 19:44:00 GMT -5
I used to get mine cut at a glass place in Augusta.
Haven't taken any pics yet, but here is a description of mine. Sump is a 40 breeder. There are two glass baffles siliconed in the tank. First is on the left end of the tank, about 6" from the end and about 11" high, silicone both sides and bottom. The second baffle is on the right end of the tank, again about 6" in from the end. This baffle is about 7" high, but is siliconed only on both sides and suspended about 3" off of the bottom of the tank. In between the baffles is a pvc frame I built with egg crate on the top and about midwater. The top piece supports a acrylic sheet with lots of small holes drilled in it. This is the drip plate, and has a cut-to -it filter pad on it. The lower piece of egg crate supports numerous pot scrubbers, bio balls, and sponges. This is the wet/dry filter. Water drains into the far left from the display tank above via 2 hoses, goes over the top of the tall baffle and spreads out over the filter pad, trickles down over the bio media, and goes to the return pump which is located on the far left. The heater is located on the side Maine floor, under the bio media. This will make more sense once I put a photo up.
Good score on the 40 long. Way more options than the 29 gal.
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Post by spotfin on Dec 2, 2015 17:37:19 GMT -5
Here is my sump. Water enters on the left and goes to the right. |
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Post by fermentedhiker on Dec 2, 2015 20:59:07 GMT -5
Thanks for the pics. That looks like a workable setup. I will say however that my intention is not to set up a wet/dry filter(not that they are bad, just not my goal for this build). I'm after more of a freshwater version of a saltwater sump.
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Post by spotfin on Dec 3, 2015 16:55:21 GMT -5
I used a very similar setup for my salt tanks. You could build something like this without the pot scrubbers and bio media. What are you going to have for filtration?
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Post by fermentedhiker on Dec 3, 2015 21:01:35 GMT -5
Filtration is going to be reef rubble from BRS(seachem matrix would be an effective alternative but rubble is way cheaper). I realize the NNR benefits of reef rock aren't as important in freshwater where a WC can be done so easily, but I like the insurance.
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Post by spotfin on Dec 4, 2015 6:30:29 GMT -5
Sounds good. I would still use some type of prefilter before the reef rubble. If not, your rubble will eventually clog with detritus. Perhaps sponges in the overflow box.
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Post by fermentedhiker on Dec 4, 2015 18:26:15 GMT -5
I've been debating about that problem. Filter socks are too fine I think and can need to be changed daily. The problem with a prefilter on the overflow is if it clogs the tank could overflow. I have seen some prefilter sponges with the pipe running all the way through them so that if the water backs up above the level then it could just pour down the center pipe. My preference would be to create a settling area where the flow dropped slow enough for the bulk of the detritus just settled on the bare bottom of a section.
To that end I'm thinking of doing the first section baffles so that the first baffle is an overflow and the next(spaced oversized at 2" away to reduce velocity)is an underflow to the second chamber which has an eggcrate table(similar to yours supporting the reef rubble topped with subwassertang and overflowing into a third section that grows some other root or stem plant that I can sell/trade then flowing through an eggcrate baffle to the return pump section.
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