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Post by Rakahrd Eastbrook, Me. on Jul 8, 2015 6:29:01 GMT -5
there should be a DIY section  |
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Post by ryansweatt2004 on Jul 8, 2015 6:51:21 GMT -5
You really don't save any money over buying some of the prebuilt RODI units. Check out BUlk reef supply. Their RODI units are really nice. Once in a while someone on here will have a decent RO or RODI unit for sale.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jul 8, 2015 9:15:29 GMT -5
I bought my Ro/Di from eBay and added on the extras as money was available. Crazy how over 2 years ago 99$ for a Ro/Di seemed like sooooooo much money to me! Now that's a cheap coral or fish for the most part
Sent from my SM-N910R4 using proboards
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jul 8, 2015 9:25:13 GMT -5
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Jul 8, 2015 9:56:45 GMT -5
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jul 8, 2015 10:20:54 GMT -5
Nothing against yours Sean but for the extra 20$ it cost I'd definitely get a full RO/DI unless you don't have the space. It's a lot harder to add a Tds meter and pressure Guage tov one like that and also I like being able to see my filters. Sent from my SM-N910R4 using proboards |
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Post by Sean (90 reef, fw rack sys) on Jul 8, 2015 11:23:52 GMT -5
No prob, no offense. DI lasted about a year and was in the price range I needed at the time. Going to upgrade soon though. I really liked this one for the mobility of it though. Added a quick disconnect to the faucet and can put it away when not in use.
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Post by Rakahrd Eastbrook, Me. on Jul 8, 2015 18:44:20 GMT -5
what does the de-ionizer part do?
is it really necessary?
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Post by ryansweatt2004 on Jul 8, 2015 19:33:12 GMT -5
It takes the feed water TDS "total dissolved solids" down from whatever number your membrane gets it to down to zero. Example, my bulk reef supply RODI has a feed water TDS of around 140-160 total dissolved solids directly from my well, my RO membrane only gets the TDS down to around 7 TDS. The Deionizing resin finished the water by removing the remaining TDS from the water resulting in a 0tds.
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Post by jmerr86 on Jul 8, 2015 20:35:55 GMT -5
Purewaterclub.com
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Post by moulton712 on Jul 9, 2015 15:13:02 GMT -5
The di resin will also remove phosphates and silica that the ro membrane doesn't. I recommend di! If you have 1 di chamber get nuclear grade. It's a mix.
I wish my filters lasted more than 3 months. 2 tanks and good sized weekly water changes will do that. I don't like anything over 1-2 tds before my di chamber. I flush all water till its 1 tds pre di and then 0 post di. When my pre di water reaches 2 tds I buy new filters. But I'm carried away about that. You can get away with higher tds. I have some expensive coral. One would pay your house payment for a month for a thumbnail frag.
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Post by Admin (RS) on Jul 9, 2015 15:48:09 GMT -5
this was my first RO - never had any issues, good cheap setups |
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Post by Rakahrd Eastbrook, Me. on Jul 24, 2015 21:25:37 GMT -5
is the DI unit really necessary?
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Post by jmerr86 on Jul 25, 2015 4:08:23 GMT -5
IMO stating at 0 is the best way to make sure your only adding the elements you won't but on the other hand I did use just RO water from Walmart for a couple years with no major issues.
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Post by jasonandsarah on Jul 25, 2015 10:16:58 GMT -5
is the DI unit really necessary? It is and it isn't, like stated above its better to have your water at 0 Tds to start with because you don't know what that 2-3 Tds is? Could be iron or it could be Copper! |
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